The Ribeira Sacra

7/29/2019 The Ribeira Sacra

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CONCELLO DE MONFORTE DE LEMOSOFICINA MUNICIPAL DE TURISMO

Ra do Comercio n 627400 Monforte de Lemos

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THE SACRED RIVERSIDE (LA RIBEIRA SACRA)

The Ribeira Sacra region comprises the lands bathed by the River Sil and, to a lesser degree, the River Mio, in the area of

inland Galicia where these two rivers meet. In the last few kilometres before it flows into the River Mio, at Os Peares, the

River Sil runs along the border between the provinces of Lugo and Ourense through a deep canyon that gives the landscape

the uncommon, impressive features that are the areas seal of identity.

It was here in these lands, in either bucolic or rugged sites, that monks and hermits came to lead an ascetic life at the

beginning of the Christian era. These settlements, with the passing of time, became flourishing monasteries from where art,

culture and material progress spread out to all of Galicia. Hence the name of Ribeira Sacra (Sacred Riverbank), from which

there is written evidence since the 12th century. The most important monastery is that of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil, a

centre of power not only in terms of religion, as for centuries its Abbot was in charge of imparting justice and appointing

scribes and customs officials.

As a legacy of the last 1,500 years, this part of Galicia contains a rich heritage that includes castles, churches, "pazos"

(country houses) and bridges. Its historical wealth also includes archaeological remains from the Bronze and Iron Ages, as

well as others that demonstrate the presence of the Roman legions in this point of the Roman Empire's western frontier.

The Ribeira Sacra's relief is comprised of high plateaus and mountains with gentle slopes, due to erosion, that give way

abruptly to the waters of the River Sil. The result is a canyon, formed millions of years ago, that is up to 500 m deep in some

places. Due to the construction of several reservoirs, the river is navigable along a 40-km stretch. Catamaran cruises, one of

the tourist attractions in the area, provide the opportunity to visit the most secluded corners, which would otherwise be

inaccessible due to the difficult terrain. At the top of the canyon there are numerous natural viewpoints that "hang" over the

river, making them ideal places to contemplate an unusually beautiful landscape.

The riverbank vegetation is comprised mainly of oak, chestnut, birch and alder trees, as well as "xestas" (broom), "toxos"

(gorse) and "piornos" (heath), the colours of the landscape changing according to natures rhythm as one season gives way to

another. Vines constitute the main crop cultivated in this region and are set out on terraces or "socalcos", often mixed with

cypress trees. The regions wines, the ideal complement for its renowned gastronomy, are marketed under the Ribeira Sacra

denomination of origin.

The singular relief of these lands make them a privileged setting for all types of outdoor activities. The active tourism activities

available go from trekking to rappel or canyon descent, as well as others such as paragliding, or routes on horseback or

mountain bike. One must also not forget the nearby Cabeza de Manzaneda Ski Resort. For the less daring, there is a wide

range of traditional festivals and cultural events, sometimes held in castles and monasteries.

Proposed Route

The route we propose is of low difficulty, uses a car as back-up and includes short journeys on foot. It is suitable for everyone

and ideal to do as a family. The estimated duration is four days. The time distribution should just be taken as an example and

can be varied according to preferences.

DAY 1

We will spend the first day of our route in Monforte de Lemos, a town in the province of Lugo considered to be the gateway to

the Ribeira Sacra region. Monforte has a vast cultural heritage composed of monasteries, castles, palaces, convents and

bridges, all of which make it a place not to be missed by travellers who appreciate art and history.

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The area known as Terra de Lemos (Land of Lemos) extends over a fertile plain, crossed by the River Cabe and dominated by

the San Vicente Mount, the heart of Monforte. The designation "Lemos" comes from "Lemavos", the name of a Pre-Roman

civilisation, probably of Celtic origin, of which numerous archaeological remains have been found in the region. As both the

Romans and the Suevians did in later centuries, the "Lemavos" chose this area to settle, due to its strategic location. The

geographers of the time referred to this settlement as Castro Dactonium ("castro" = Celtic settlement). At other times, the

name of Monte Forti, direct precedent of the current toponym Monforte, was also used.

In the 8th century, the already christianised Castro Dactonium was destroyed by the Arabs. Over its remains, the San Vicente

do Pino Monastery was later built, from which the Medieval town of Monforte grew as a large agricultural and cattle market.

Together with the Homage Tower and the Palace of the Counts of Lemos, the monastery is a part of the San Vicente do Pino

monumental ensemble, the perfect point to begin our visit to the town.

Only a few sad remains are left today of what the Palace of the Counts of Lemos, lords of these lands, once was. In its golden

age, its rooms were used both to exercise fearsome power and to hold sumptuous feasts. Its walls were hung with Flemish

tapestries and works by Titian, El Greco and Raphael. Its archives contained important documents of what was one of the

most important lineages of the times. In 1672, a fire reduced everything to ashes.

Monforte's Medieval heritage is rounded off by the walls and their towers, which are laid out in an irregular form, due, it is

thought, to the fact that they were built in several stages. The walls have three gates: the Cadea Vella (Old Chain), the

Alcazaba (Citadel) and the Porta Nova (New Gate), this last bearing the emblem of the Counts carved in marble. Some

sections were restored a few years ago.

A few metres from the wall, we find some of the most representative streets of the old quarter, such as Rua da Cadea Vella,

Rua dos Fornos or Rua do Burato. As we walk through them, we can admire some of the numerous emblazoned houses to be

found in Monforte, such as those of the Ribadeneira and Quiroga families. In the final years of the Middle Ages, a large

community of Jews (the most important one in Galicia, together with that of Ribadavia) settled in these streets and squares,

which greatly contributed to boosting trade in the town.

We continue on our journey, crossing the Puente Viejo (Old Bridge) over the River Cabe. This bridge is of Roman origin, but its

present form dates back to the 16th century. It comprises six semicircular arches and some Medieval decorative elements can

be distinguished. Next, we visit the Convent of the Barefoot Franciscan Nuns, also called the Clarisas convent. More than the

building's architecture, its attraction lies in the sacred art museum it houses, one of the two most important ones in Spain.

Continuing along the course of the River Cabe, we come to the School of Nuestra Seora de la Antigua, an important building

known as "the little Galician Escorial". The museum in this Renaissance building holds several works by El Greco.

To the historical-artistic heritage of Monforte one must add the A Rgoa church, formerly called San Jacinto Convent, which is

located in the old quarter. Of particular interest are its main altar and its organ, one of the best in Galicia and which is still in

perfect condition, despite being over three hundred years old. Other interesting monuments are the Shrine to San Lzaro, the

Picos Bridge, the Los Condes Park and the Tor Pazo (country house). To visit the latter we need to travel 8 km along the

Escairn road. This "pazo" dates back to the 9th century and is in very good condition. It contains a library with over 8,000

volumes, as wells as arms, damask curtains, jewels and antique furniture.

A curiosity worth mentioning is that Monforte has the narrowest house in Spain, registered as such in the Guinness Book of

Records. It measures 1.50 m in width by 20 m in depth and has a ground floor and four storeys.

DAY 2

After visiting the places of interest in Monforte, we leave on the C-533 road towards the town of Escairn, which we will reach

after travelling 13.8 km. We continue along this route until we run into the CRG-22. After driving for 10.6 km we will arrive at



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the floodgates of the Belesar dam, very close to which there is a turnoff to the left that goes to the church of Santo Estevo de

Ribas de Mio. After admiring the church and the beautiful surroundings we move on towards the village of Belesar. The

grapes that produce the region's renowned wines are grown around this village. From the village of Belesar we can take a

catamaran trip around the Os Peares Reservoir and down the River Mio. The round trip takes about two hours. One must

take into account that while in spring and summer the catamaran does regular scheduled trips, in autumn and winter only

prearranged trips (that is, with prior booking) are carried out.

From the village of Belesar we return to the CRG-22 road and go towards Monforte de Lemos. A short distance away we take

the first turnoff to the left, which, after going under the CRG-22 and following the indications, will take us to the village of

Buxn. Leaving Buxn behind, to the left we will see the San Paio de Diomondi church, which dates back to the 12th century

and can be visited during hours of worship on Sundays at 12 o'clock. We continue our route and go past the villages of

Lamaquebrada and Ferreira. We reach Eir and stop off to see the San Miguel de Eir church, one of the most peculiar

Galician Romanesque buildings of the 12th century. To visit the inside (no entrance fee is charged, though donations are

accepted) the key can be obtained from the first house as we enter the village.

After travelling 4.3 km we reach Ferreira, capital of the municipality of Pantn, where there are some very interesting

buildings to be seen. Its civil architecture monuments include the building at the Plaza del Ayuntamiento (Town Hall Square)

and the Maside Pazo (country house), although the latter is a private home and cannot be visited. As regards religious

architecture, a visit to the Bernardine Nuns Monastery is a must. Located on the outskirts of the village, its most singular

feature is that is the only one in Galicia to have been occupied continuously and solely by women, since its foundation. The

church and the cloister can be visited daily from 12 pm to 1 pm and from 4:30 pm to 6 pm. At the caretakers office we can

purchase home-produced macaroons made by the nuns themselves.

From Ferreira de Pantn we take the N-120 road towards Ourense. Once on the road, we take a turnoff to the left which will

take us to San Fiz de Cangas. At the first house on the right before reaching the church we can ask for the key to visit the

temple. There is no entrance fee, but donations are gratefully received. After the visit we backtrack to take the N-120 towards

Ourense, but stop off a few kilometres on to visit the San Estevo de Atn church. We will ask for the key in the hamlet of

Atn. Back again on the N-120, we travel towards Os Peares. From this last point we will follow the signs that take us to San

Vicente de Pombeiro, travelling a stretch on a narrow road where we should drive cautiously. It is worth taking time to visit

the San Vicente de Pombeiro church, located in a beautiful spot over the River Sil. Despite the fact that it is normally closed,

looking through the large window cut into one of the side doors for this purpose, we will be able to get quite a good view of

the inside.

Once we have visited the Romanesque religious architecture on the banks of the Rivers Mio and Sil, we journey on to the

town of Os Peares, where the second day of our itinerary ends.

DAY 3

The morning of our third day begins by leaving the town of Os Peares, where the waters of the Rivers Mio and Sil merge

together. Crossing the old bridge over the Sil, we will continue climbing alongside the river to the Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil

Reservoir.

Following the river, our route penetrates into the canyon, where we will travel between the mountain and a line of trees that

run parallel to the water. The railway track runs along the other side of the river bank. In the riverbank lands we will be able

to see the terraces or "socalcos" built to cultivate the grapes from which the A Ribeira Sacra wines are made.

2.2 km from Os Peares, we leave the floodgates of the San Pedro Dam on the left. A sign warns us that the road is private

property. A few kilometres further on we come to the Santo Estevo Reservoir, which we will also skirt. 12.7 km from Os

Peares we find a turnoff to the left with a sign that says: "Embarcadero (pier) de Santo Estevo 1.00 km". This is the boarding

point for a catamaran that runs between Estevo and Abeleda, located a few kilometres upriver, and back. Another route goes



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from Santo Estevo to San Fiz and back. When the reservoir was built, 80% of San Fiz was flooded. In the summer months,

when the water level drops to its lowest, the remains of the old village can be seen.

There is another, longer route that takes us 24 km downriver from Abeleda. It turns back very close to the floodgates, at a

place known as Os Chancs, where there is a pier carved out of rock. This trip takes three hours and is available all year

round. The catamaran sails at 11:30 am and at 4 pm.

It is important to note, with regard to all these trips, that some of them only leave if there is a minimum of fifteen passengers.

The trip can be booked beforehand. For more information contact: Viajes Pardo (Ourense), tel.: 988210460, or Hemisferios

Viajes (Lugo), tel.: 982254545

Our catamaran journey will take us through some sites with great charm. The tranquil waters and the rocky canyon

formations merge together to create impressive views. Up in the heights we will be able to see the Santa Cristina Monastery

and we will pass close to the site known as the Balcones de Madrid (Balconies of Madrid). On the river banks there are small

piers used by the area's wine-growers to transport the grapes after the harvest. In some cases, exiting towards the reservoir

is the only possible route. We finalise our day's journey enjoying these magnificent landscapes.

The afternoon route for the third day in A Ribeira Sacra begins at the Santo Estevo pier. From its turnoff we continue along

the road that brought us from Os Peares, towards Loureiro and Luintra. After 4 kilometres we reach a crossroads. If we turn

to the left we will come to the Santa Cristina Monastery and the site known as the Balcones de Madrid. On the other hand, the

fork to the right will take us to Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil.

We propose first of all to visit Santa Cristina, so we turn to the left. At the village of Caxide we will find a curious bell tower

made of cast iron. 13.8 km from the crossroads at the Santo Estevo pier, we reach Parada de Sil. The Santa Cristina

Monastery is 4.5 km away. To get there we will take a turnoff to the left, located only a few metres further on. After the visit

we retrace our steps back onto the road, and after a few metres, on the left, we will see the sign that indicates how to get to

the Balcones de Madrid. From this location we can get some magnificent views over the river Sil and enjoy the unique beauty

of the landscape created by the walls of the Sil Canyon as it closes in the waters of the reservoir.

We turn back and go, once again through Parada de Sil, Caxide and Loureiro, towards Luintra. On our way we will go past the

turnoff to the Santo Estevo pier (where the catamaran sails from). The Santo Estevo recreation area is located 2.4 km from

this point, on the right-hand side of the road. It has a tourist information office close by. Here we will take the road that

branches off to the right and 3.5 km further on we will reach the Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil Monastery which is currently

undergoing work to restore the church and turn it into a hotel facility. Therefore, we will only be able to access the

surrounding area, which is still well worth a visit.

We return to the main road and continue our journey towards Luintra, capital of the municipality of Nogueira de Ramun,

situated at a distance of 5 km. This municipality is popularly known as the place of origin of the "afiadores e parageiros"

(knife sharpeners and umbrella repairers). In the centre of the village there is a roundabout, where we will turn to the left,

towards Loa do Monte, a town situated 6 km away. A few kilometres after the village we will see three almost identical rocky

formations which indicate that we are nearing the San Pedro de Rocas (St. Peter of the Rocks) Monastery, our last stop of the

day. We penetrate into a very lush conifer forest and the signs lead us there after travelling 5 km.

DAY 4

The final day of our route through A Ribeira Sacra begins in the surroundings of the San Pedro de Rocas Monastery, our last

stop on the previous day. Once on the road we turn to the left and a few kilometres further along we will run into the C-536

road, where we continue towards Esgos (to the left). Two kilometres on the other side of this town we will find Couso Hill,

situated at an altitude of 701 m. 5.6 km from Esgos we reach a crossroads. We turn left to get to Xunqueira de Espadanedo,

where we will visit the Santa Mara Monastery.

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Continuing our journey, about 6 km from Xunqueira, we reach Rodicio Hill, at an altitude of 950 m. A further 6 km on we

reach Vilario Fro, where we can stop to visit the bridge, which, despite its Roman origin, includes features that are from

much later periods. We must bear in mind that we will have to walk 400 m to reach the bridge. In winter it is quite common to

find large amounts of water in the area.

From Vilario Fro to Leboreiro there is only 1 km. In the latter village we will turn to the right to go towards Montederramo,

which is 5 km away, where we will visit the Santa Mara Monastery, currently used as a school. Some zones are private, but

most of the monastery can be visited in a guided tour.

From Montederramo, we continue on the road that runs along the side of the monastery. After 2.7 km we take a turnoff to the

left, following the signs to Marrubio and Castro Caldelas. The former is 1 km away, and 1 km outside the village we can stop

off to visit the Marrubio Stone Cross and the San Antonio Chapel . After this break we go back along the same route and on to

Castro Caldelas, situated about 16 km away, where we will visit the Castro Caldelas Castle, the Santa Isabel Church and the

Shrine to the Virgen de los Remedios (Virgin of the Remedies).

We leave Castro Caldelas and take the road that goes to A Teixeira. This toponym means "yew forest", a tree considered

sacred by the Celts. To the left, after 2 km, we will be able to see the ruins of the San Paio de Abeleda Monastery. We will also

be able to see the terraces where the Amandi vines are grown, located on the opposite bank of the River Sil, in the Lugo side

of the Ribeira Sacra region. Finally, to end our day and this route through A Ribeira Sacra, we make our way back to Monforte

(situated 25 km from Castro Caldelas) along the OU-601 road.

PLACES TO VISIT

Monforte de Lemos

San Vicente Do Pino Monastery

The building we can visit today dates back to the 16th century, although from long before, probably from the 10th century, it

had lodged a community of Benedictine monks. It is of Neoclassical design, with rather austere decoration, and has three

floors. It was built using ashlar stone. The main entrance on its faade is particularly outstanding, framed by Doric columns

that support a row of balconies. The upper part boasts a pediment with pinnacles and a vaulted niche containing the image of

Saint Benedict.

The cloister contains two features of great value, an urn and a stone bas-relief, both of which date back prior to the

construction of the current building.

Another interesting feature is the layout of the monastery floor, which has a series of slopes and conduits that served to

channel the rainwater to a tank located under the flooring.

Attached to the left wing there is a church of Latin Cross design. The faade is Renaissance, whilst the style on the inside

corresponds to transitional Gothic. There are several elements of particular interest. The first we will mention is the stone

sepulchre of the Abbot Diego Garca, situated next to the main entrance. It is said that the Abbot's death was ordered by the

Counts of Lemos, lords of these lands. Those who witnessed the opening of the sarcophagus testified that it contained several

bones and that a mark that looked like a burn could be seen on the skull. Next, there is the valuable image of the Virgin of

Montserrat, patron saint of Monforte, placed above a Churrigueresque style altar. In the Baroque-style main altar, the

altarpiece, the columns and the arch, as well as the oil painting representing the martyrdom of Saint Lawrence, are worthy of

attention. Another point of interest in this church is the vault beneath the choir stalls .

Homage Tower

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The Homage Tower , emblem of the Lemos family's power, is the most outstanding feature of the Monforte Castle . Its four

storeys reach a height of 30 metres. The upper part provides an ideal viewpoint to enjoy magnificent views of the entire

region. In the distance we can see the O Caurel and O Incio mountains, which are covered with snow during the winter

months.

It dates from between the 13th and 15th centuries. Its almost square layout measures 13 m in width by 12 m in length. In

some parts the walls' thickness can reach 3.5 m. Inside, a wooden staircase takes us to the top. On the third of its four

storeys, we can admire the Queen's Window, particularly beautiful due to its trefoil arches. At the summit, apart from the

panoramic view, the tops of the battlements are also worth seeing. This tower contains furniture, arms and chattels from the

period on which the Lemos coats of arms can be distinguished. On the lower part there is a 6-metre high vaulted basement.

Nuestra Seora De La Antigua School

Also known as the Cardinal Rodrigo de Castro School, after its founder, over the door there is a Latin inscription that reads:

"Rodrigo de Castro, Cardinal Archbishop of Seville , donates to the Company of Jesus, for the use of young people, a temple

and school dedicated to the Virgin Mary". Its construction was initiated in 1593, the project being entrusted to several Jesuit

architects, and it was not completed until 1913, three centuries later.

It belongs to the so-called Herrera Renaissance style. Its lines and large size (it is 110 metres long) are reminiscent of El

Escorial Monastery. Its faade is symmetric and monumental. The layout of the stairway at the entrance is particularly

interesting, as it appears to have no points of support, whilst the steps are constructed from a single piece of granite. It has

two Neoclassical cloisters. On the walls we can see the coats of arms of the Cardinal, the Counts of Lemos, the House of Alba

and the Escolapians, who were responsible for completing the construction.

The church, with its Latin Cross layout, is made up of a central nave and two lateral naves which are interconnected. The

dome shows signs of the damage caused by the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. The temple contains the sepulchre and a statue of

the founder, sculpted in bronze by the Italian artist Juan de Bolonia.

One of the main attractions of the School's church is the Baroque altarpiece by Francisco Moure, initiated in 1625. Carved in

walnut wood, it represents six scenes from the life of Jesus, as well Our Lady of La Antigua and Saint Ignatius of Loyola. It has

two plinths or bases and three overlapping sections. Each level is divided into three by Corinthian columns. It is an impressive

ensemble, conscientiously decorated and exceptionally valuable.

The School's museum, the former vestry, preserves paintings, amongst others, by El Greco and Andrea del Sarto. Works by

the former include "Saint Lawrence" and "Saint Francis", whilst the second is the author of "Saint Margaret of Cortona", "Saint

Inez", "Saint Catherine of Alexandria", "Saint Peter" and "Saint John the Baptist". Furthermore, the museum also housespersonal objects and books that belonged to the Cardinal.

Convent And Museum Of The Barefoot Franciscan Nuns

This is a simply decorated construction built in ashlar stone in the 17th century. In its church, also of modest design, one can

distinguish Gothic elements. The convent was founded at the wishes of the 7th Count of Lemos, Pedro Fernndez de Castro,

and his wife, Catalina de la Cerda y Sandoval.

It was she who gathered the relics and images of saints and martyrs, as well as other objects of religious worship that were to

form the Sacred Art Museum 's collection. Today it is considered to be the most important one in Spain , together with that of

the Royal Barefoot Nuns in Madrid . Isolation from the exterior, due to the nuns' strict cloistered life, has been a crucial factor

for the magnificent state of conservation of the museum's collection.



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Amongst the pieces displayed, of particular interest are the replica in silver of Michelangelo's Piet, the Recumbent Christ by

Gregorio Fernndez and a collection of Italian reliquaries. There are also countless crucifixes, processional crosses, candelabra

and other religious objects.

Church of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Mio

This Romanesque church is located on a beautiful spot over the River Mio and the Belesar Reservoir. It was declared a

National Monument in 1931. It was built at the end of the 12th century and has a single nave. Its granite walls are reinforced

with solid buttresses. The portal is made up of four archivolts, supported by four pairs of columns. All of these elements are

profusely decorated with a great variety of forms. The first archivolt displays seven figures with instruments. The third has a

double intertwined design. Finally, the fourth is decorated with vegetable motifs. The portal is a part of a faade with arches,

"guardalluvias" (rain protectors) and an outstanding rose window. The eaves around the wall are adorned with human and

animal heads. As regards its aesthetics, this building bears similarities with the works of Master Mateo.

Church of San Paio de Diomondi

This church, built between the 13th and 14th centuries, formed part of one of the many monasteries, in this case of the

Benedictine order, that existed in the Ribeira Sacra region. Its aesthetics and composition correspond to the Romanesque

style. It was built in ashlar stone and has a rectangular design, with a single nave. The entrance on the main faade, which is

situated under a plain tympanum, is framed by four archivolts. Under some monstrous figures there is an inscription. On each

side of the door, supporting the archivolts, there are columns with decorated capitals. The walls have modillions decorated

with geometric forms.

Inside, visitors can see a baptismal font that dates back to the 13th century. Furthermore, there are 19th-century Neoclassical

altarpieces and an interesting 18th-century silver cross. Due to its great artistic value, San Paio de Diomondi has been

declared a National Monument.

Church of San Miguel de Eir

Though built in the 12th century as a temple within a monastery of Benedictine nuns, the discovery of Pre-Romanesque

remains indicates the probable existence of a prior site. It has a single rectangular nave with a semicircular apse and a gabled

roof. It has a rectangular, single-section tower. The upper part of the faade has a triangular top. The door on the north-

facing wall, the most interesting one, is flanked by two columns with decorated capitals. On the tympanum we can see figures

and intertwined strokes. The semicircular arch sustained by the columns is decorated at three levels: a moulding on the upper

part, rosettes and theAgnus Deion the middle part and flutes and small spheres on the lower section.

Inside the temple we can see murals that date back to the 15th and 16th centuries, sculptures attributed to Cornielis of

Holland and decorated capitals. In 1964, the Miguel de Eir church was declared a National Monument.

Monastery of Ferreira de Pantn

The Bernardine Nuns Monastery, firstly of the Benedictine order and later Cistercian, has always been reserved for women and

has the curious record of being the only one in Galicia that has maintained its function from its creation to the present. It

remained unaffected by Mendizbal's Disentailment Act in the 19th century and continued its normal activities. Being a

cloistered monastery, we should observe the visiting hours set by the nuns: every day from 11:00 am to 1:00 pm and from

4:00 pm to 6:00 pm.

This architectural ensemble was built in several stages over five centuries. The Romanesque church dates back to the 12th

century. The cloister was built in the 15th century, whilst the rest of the elements were built in the 18th century.



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It is surrounded by a solid wall. Above the access door to the premises, which is framed by two buttresses acting as pillars, we

can see the coat of arms of the Castilian Cistercian Order. The monastery, a two-storey building constructed in ashlar granite,

has a cloister in two sections, with semicircular arches supported by Alcarria-style capitals. This space houses the tomb of

Countess Fronilde, Abbess of the monastery during its golden age in the 12th century.

The church was built forming a right angle with the monastery's faade. It is of rectangular design, with a single nave and a

semicircular apse. Amongst the figures to be found in its interior a polychrome wooden sculpture of the Virgin with Child is

worth mentioning. We can also visit the tombs of Diego de Lemos, leader of the Irmandios (Brotherhoods) Revolts, and his

son.

To round off our visit, guidebooks on the village as well as confectionery made by the nuns can be acquired at the monastery.

Church of San Fiz de Cangas

This church of simple beauty was built between the 11th and 13th centuries as the temple of a convent of Benedictine nuns.

In the 17th century some reforms were carried out, including the demolition of the left-hand side apse. In its place the

Torrrenovais chapel was added, which houses the tomb of Rodrigo Lpez de Quiroga. However, the place had been the site of

a monastery for many centuries before, since the times of the Visigoths.

San Fiz de Cangas is of rectangular design with a single nave. Its main faade boasts a pointed arch with the tympanum

situated below. The latter is decorated with a Greek cross, symbols of the sun and the moon, concentric rectangles and a star

within a square. Inside, there are altarpieces dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, in addition to the praying figure of

Don Rodrigo Lpez de Quiroga.

Church of Santo Estevo de Atn

The first references to hermit settlements in these lands date back to the Suevian period, although it would not be until the

12th and 13th centuries that this Romanesque-style church was built, as part of a monastery that no longer exists. In later

periods various reform works were carried out, and today the temple has been restored and consolidated.

This church dedicated to Saint Stephen of Atn has a single nave with a gabled roof. Its rectangular apse is topped by a barrel

vault. Inscriptions and marks are visible in different parts of the walls, presumably made by the stonemasons who worked on

its construction. The west door, which is larger than the north door, is made up of three pairs of columns that support slightly

pointed archivolts over a plain tympanum. Other elements of interest include the decoration of the eaves and the three

windows of primitive design located in the access arch to the apse (one) and the walls of the rectory (the other two).

Church of San Vicente de Pombeiro

As is the case with many other churches in the area, the temple dedicated to Saint Vincent of Pombeiro formed part, back in

the 10th century, of a monastery of which only a few traces remain today. The church was constructed between the 12th and

13th centuries, although it underwent a number of reforms in later periods. Of basilica design, with three naves and three

semicircular apses, its singular main entrance is set between two buttresses. Two pairs of columns support slightly pointed

archivolts above a plain tympanum. The upper part has six arches decorated with human heads and geometric figures, which

together form what is called a "guardalluvias" (rain protector) . The north and south walls also have interesting doors: the

former is similar to the main entrance, whilst the one on the south wall is located below a decorated rose window.

The western faade has a circular tower, topped by a square bell tower protected by a small dome. By looking through a

window in the north wall one can see inside the temple, which contains Renaissance and Baroque altarpieces, as well as the

remains of ancient 15th century murals.

Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil Reservoir



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The Santo Estevo Reservoir is one of the most interesting spots, from a tourist attraction point of view, in the entire Ribeira

Sacra region. Thanks to this civil engineering construction, this section of the River Sil has become an important point of

reference for water sports lovers in Galicia . The reservoir has a pier where one can board a catamaran that runs between

Santo Estevo and Abeleda, located a few kilometres upriver, and back. Another route goes from Santo Estevo to San Fiz, and

back. When the reservoir was built, 80% of San Fiz was flooded. In the summer months, when the water level drops to its

lowest, the remains of the old village can be seen.

There is another, longer route that takes us 24 km downriver from Abeleda. It turns back very close to the floodgates, at a

place known as Os Chancs, where there is a pier carved out of rock. This trip takes three hours and is available all year

round. The catamaran sails at 11:30 am and at 4:00 pm.

It is important to note, with regard to all these trips, that some of them only leave if there is a minimum of fifteen passengers.

The trip can be booked beforehand. For more information contact: Viajes Pardo (Ourense), tel.: 988210460, or Hemisferios

Viajes ( Lugo ), tel.: 982254545.

Our catamaran journey will take us through some sites with great charm. The tranquil waters and the rocky canyonformations merge together to create impressive views. Up in the heights we will be able to see the Santa Cristina Monastery

and we will pass close to the site known as the Balcones de Madrid (Balconies of Madrid). On the river banks there are small

piers used by the area's wine-growers to transport the grapes after the harvest. In some cases, exiting towards the reservoir

is the only possible route.

The pier provides a privileged view of the sides of the Sil canyon. The river flows serenely between rugged, almost vertical

walls. There are those who say that the rocks take on strange human forms. Aside from these considerations, which basically

depend on the imagination of the viewer, the landscape cannot but impress. We will also be able to see the "socalcos" or

terraces where the area's vine growers cultivate their vines. Amongst other varieties, these grapes are the raw material for

the renowned Amandi wines, a fine exponent of the Ribeira Sacra's prestigious wine industry. The reservoir, apart fromsilently witnessing the ripening of the grapes, plays an essential role during their harvest. The vines are located in such

inaccessible sites that sometimes the only way to transport the grapes is by boat. From the catamaran we can also see, high

above, the Balcones de Madrid and the Santa Cristina Monastery. Apart from the catamaran pier, the reservoir also has a

wharf for recreational use, with several mooring points. During the summer, these facilities are used for all types of water

sports and activities.

Balcones de Madrid (Balconies of Madrid)

The spot known as the Balcones de Madrid is a spectacular viewpoint over the Sil Canyon . It is situated close to the village of

Parada de Sil . To get there we will follow a well signposted track that starts at the village, which will only take a few minutes.

Thanks to its strategic location, overlooking the river from above, it provides incomparable panoramic views of one of the

most rugged sections of the Sil. At the bottom of the canyon the waters flow confined by vertical rocky walls. From the

handrails around the viewpoint we will get to see the Cadenas Shrine, situated on the other bank, in the Lugo part of A Ribeira

Sacra. On clear days we can get an open view of a good part of the region. On grey, humid days, however, the river and its

banks become a mysterious setting engulfed by mist and low clouds.

This forms part of the network of trekking routes that criss-cross the area and is also a good spot for bird-watching.

Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil Monastery

Although the exact date of its foundation is not known, its existence is documented since the 9th century. In later centuries it

was expanded to include the church. In the 16th century, when it was incorporated into the Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil

Monastery as a mere priory, a new cloister and a church tower top were built. It was abandoned following the 1835



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Disentailment Act. When the monastic activities ceased, both Santa Cristina and Santo Estevo were devoted to private

dwelling use, and even as stables or to store hay.

This ensemble, surrounded by a beautiful oak forest on the banks of the Sil, comprises a monastery and a church. The original

monastery building, laid out around a small cloister, was of Romanesque style, in keeping with the aesthetic lines of the

Benedictine order. Today, only two wings still remain. One of the points of interest here is the entrance, which is similar to the

south part of the Ourense Cathedral. As testimony of its monastic past, we can see the "armarium claustri", small spaces

where the books the friars read on their walks were stored. It is an austere construction, sparsely decorated but of singular

beauty due to its harmony with the woods and the orography of its surroundings.

Construction of the church, of Romanesque style, began in the 12th century and during the 13th century Gothic elements,

mainly arches, were introduced. It has a Latin Cross design, divided into five sections. Its structure displays the elegance and

verticality typical of the buildings of the Cistercian Order. The faade is outstanding due to its entrance with three arches,

supported by pairs of columns with decorated capitals. The upper part has a large Romanesque rose window. Its high tower, a

privileged viewpoint over the River Sil, is topped by a pyramid shape, which is quite unusual.

Inside there are fresco paintings, a main altar decorated with geometric motifs, Baroque altarpieces and, most importantly, an

image of Saint Peter created by the artist Juan de Angs in the late 16th century. On the walls of the vestry there are painted

coats of arms of the Orders of Calatrava and San Esteban.

Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil Monastery

The monastery was founded by Saint Martin of Dumio between the years 550 and 555. Its most glorious period began in the

10th century, under the rule of Abbot Franquila. During this century and the following, nine bishops were drawn to the

monastery, attracted by its virtues. This fact is reflected in its coat of arms, which contains nine mitres. As occurred with other

monasteries, it also suffered the effects of the 1835 Disentailment Act. In 1923 it was declared a Historical Artistic

Monument . Together with those of Oseira and Celanova, it is considered to be one of the most important in Ourense. It is

presently being reformed to convert it into a "Parador" (state-owned luxury hotel).

Its structure and decoration contain Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements. Its extremely interesting

faade belongs to the latter period. The door, situated at the centre of the faade, is surrounded by a moulding decorated with

geometric figures. Above, there is a pediment over which there is a row of balconies. The upper part is topped by the Spanish

imperial coat of arms. On the sides of the door, between Tuscan columns, there are two images of Benedictine saints. Above

these we can see the coats of arms of the Castilian Congregation (on the right) and the monastery (on the left).

This monument is organised around three cloisters. The oldest, called the Bishops' cloister, is of Romanesque style. One of itsmost notable features is the ribbed vault on the upper section. The other two cloisters, also very beautiful, are from the

Renaissance period.

The church, of Romanesque origin, has a basilica layout, with two bell towers on the sides. Inside there is a large stone altar,

originally located in the larger of the two Renaissance cloisters, which is decorated with images of Jesus and the Apostles. The

16th-century Renaissance altarpieces depict scenes from the New Testament.

San Pedro de Rocas Monastery

This monastery, which is unique due to the fact that it is excavated in the natural rock, displays none of the delicate Gothic

structures nor the harmonious proportions of the Renaissance style. It is a very ancient, rough, almost primitive construction,

which witnessed the first hermit settlements in the area. The historical value of San Pedro de Rocas (St. Peter of the Rocks) is

more anthropological than aesthetic.



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The presence of the first inhabitants here can be traced back to the year 573. According to the inscriptions on its foundation

tablet, which is kept at the Provincial Archaeological Museum, its founders were seven men who chose this beautiful spot as a

retreat to lead a life of prayer. Later, in the 9th century, the place was rediscovered by the Knight Gemodus during a hunting

trip. He settled there and was appointed Abbot by his colleagues. Legend or not, the fact is that there is proof of the existence

of Gemodus, as shown in the privilege granted to Rocas by Alfonso V in 1007. In later centuries this monastery, which was

never very wealthy nor had a great number of inhabitants, came under the jurisdiction of those of Santo Estevo de Ribas de

Sil and San Salvador de Celanova. In 1923 it was declared a Historical Artistic Monument.

The monastery's church, which dates back to the 6th century, is one of the oldest known Christian temples. Its three naves

were excavated in the rock. The ceiling of the central nave has an opening that allows light in from the outside. A pilaster

serves as the altar. On the wall of the chapel to the left, a small area of 5 x 3.40 m, there is a hollow that supposedly

contained the tomb of Gemodus. There, a fresco mural painting was discovered, dating from between 1175 and 1200, with

images of the Apostles and a map of the world.

We can also see sculptured sepulchres with images of recumbent figures. On the floor of the church and the atrium there are

numerous tombs excavated in the rock. The church was later expanded with the addition of a nave. The bell tower, designed

by Gonzalo de Penalva in the 15th century, is located on the upper part of an enormous rock formation almost 20 m high,

from which the place takes its name.

An arch serves as access to a small area, used until recently as parish cemetery. It has a quadrangular layout and is enclosed

by a wall. From here a path descends down the mountainside to the San Bieito Fountain, also excavated in the rock.

Xunqueira de Espadanedo Monastery

Although the exact foundation date of this monastery is not known, its existence is documented since the year 1174. King

Fernando II finally established its area of jurisdiction, which still today marks the limits of the municipality of Xunqueira.

As regards its spatial distribution, this monument is divided into two parts: the church, built in the Middle Ages, and the

monastery, the cloister and the liturgical furnishings, from more modern periods. Today the church serves as parish church

and part of the monastery houses the Town Hall offices (where we can get information on visits), the medical centre, etc.

The church, declared a National Monument in 1980, is of basilica design and comprises three 30-m long naves. Its decoration

is austere and simple, a characteristic typical of Cistercian constructions. Nevertheless, the historiated or decorated capitals of

the central nave, with vegetable motifs, are well worth admiring. The north entrance, of Romanesque style, is also decorated

with vegetable motifs. On the vestry door we will find Ionic volutes. It has a Romanesque stone altar. The main altarpiece

(there are others in the lateral chapels) was created by Juan de Angs, "El Mozo", and displays the crosses of Calatrava andAlcntara, the coat of arms of the Castilian Congregation, the Ascension of the Virgin Mary and several scenes from the life of

Jesus.

The faade of the church is of a much later period, as, according to the inscription it bears, it was finished in 1801. Of

Neoclassical style, it contains an image of Saint Bernard. The bell tower is divided into two levels, the first with a quadrangular

layout, whilst the upper section is circular.

The monastery was originally Romanesque, but the present day building was constructed later, between the 16th and 17th

centuries. The cloister is its most interesting area. Its layout and decoration are simple, but harmonious, giving it

unquestionable artistic value.

The coffered ceiling over the entrance displays some curious caricatures, painted directly onto the wood.

Santa Mara de Montederramo Monastery



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When it was founded, in 1124, it belonged to the Benedictine order and was called San Juan. Upon its incorporation into the

Cistercian Order it was called Santa Mara. In 1951 it was declared a Historical Artistic Monument.

The Latin Cross design church is accessed through a small atrium. In the upper part of its plain faade we find an image of

Saint Mary, between two pairs of pilasters. There is an inscription dated 1607, probably the year in which its faade and its

three naves were completed. The bell tower was placed in a peculiar manner over the wall of the church transept so that the

bells' sound waves could expand without coming up against any obstacle.

In the interior, of monumental beauty, the structure is supported by fluted pillars topped by Ionic capitals. Currently there is

no decoration on the wall behind the altar, as, due to its delicate state of conservation, the main altarpiece that should cover

it, dated between 1664 and 1666, was dismantled and moved to another space. The choir stalls are very beautiful and were

made by Alonso Martnez in 1608. They display scenes from the Bible and the history of the Cistercian order.

The monastery has two cloisters. The regular or processional cloister is connected to the church. In the early 1980s this area

was rescued from a state of ruin, and once restored it began to be used as a school. The lower or guest cloister is a beautiful

example of Spanish Renaissance architecture. Beautifully decorated, it contains figures of saints, kings, religious order

symbols, and military coats of arms. It is believed that it was built by Juan de la Sierra in 1598. The upper part is inhabited.

From it one can access the River Mao.

San Antonio Chapel and Marrubio Stone Cross

This ensemble is formed by three elements: a stone cross, two "petos de nimas" (shrines to souls). They are dated 1778.

The most renowned is the first, from which the rest take their name. Its most distinctive feature compared to many other

constructions of this kind is the colour. The group formed by the stone cross and the shrines is situated beside the San

Antonio Chapel, covered by a canopy.

Castro Caldelas

Castro Caldelas Castle

Situated on the summit of Vila Peak, this is the most emblematic monument in the town. It was constructed by the nobleman

Pedro Fernndez de Castro, between 1336 and 1343. Nearby, numerous battles were fought to gain power over the regions'

lands. Starting in the 16th century it lost some of its character as a defensive fortress to become a residence for the high

nobility.

Shaped in an irregular polygon, the structure of the castle is perfectly adapted to the terrain on which it stands. From theoriginal construction the walls, three towers, the administrator's house and the arms courtyard still remain, not so, however,

the moat that would have originally surrounded the complex.

Its walls display numerous coats of arms which indicate the castle's ownership at different times. On the main door we can

see the family coats of arms of the Osorio (two wolves), the Castro (six circular forms), the Kingdom of Len (a rampant lion)

and the Kingdom of Castile (a castle, which also corresponds to the Enrquez lineage). From here we can see the clock tower

to the right. It bears an inscription of the Greek letter "tau", a symbol associated with the Order of the Temple, which may

have participated in some significant episode of this castle's history.

Most interesting are its well or water tank, a wooden corridor in the courtyard, and the Camino de Ronda (Sentry Walk) on the

inner part of the walls. In the interior of the castle there are a series of objects on display (coins, fragments of pottery, darts,

etc.) that were found during the restoration and reform work, a process that has still not been completed. We can also see

some distaffs, looms for weaving linen, sharpening wheels, as well as farming implements and carpentry tools .



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Santa Isabel Church

This small temple was built in the 16th century. Its layout and decoration correspond to Renaissance aesthetics, although it

has been rebuilt recently.

Los Remedios Church-Shrine

This temple was built in the 14th century and is of Romanesque-Ogival style. The upper part of the south wall entrance, which

is currently blocked up, displays two sculptured wolves. Although its patron saint is the Virgin of the Remedies, its main altar

boasts an image of the Virgin Mary. It has a chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Carmen, on the vault of which there are images

of scenes from the history of the Carmelites.

PLACES TO VISIT

CITY / TOWN /CITY COUNCILTYPE OF

RESOURCE

DISTANCE FROMTHE PREVIOUS

POINT

TIME FROM THEPREVIOUS POINT

Monforte de Lemos 0 km. 0 min.

Santo Estevo de Ribas de Mio 27,9 km. 30 min.

San Paio de Diomondi 9,2 km. 15 min.

San Miguel de Eir 11,9 km. 15 min.

Ferreira de Pantn 4,3 km. 10 min.

San Fiz de Cangas 3,9 km. 10 min.

Santo Estevo de Atn 5,2 km. 10 min.

San Vicente de Pombeiro 18,60 km. 20 min.

Embalse de Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil 40,2 km. 60 min.

Balcones de Madrid 15,8 km. 10 min.

Monasterio de Santa Cristina 4,5 km. 15 min.

Monasterio de Santo Estevo 24,2 km 35 min.

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Monasterio de San Pedro de Rocas 16,2 km. 15 min.

Monasterio de Xunqueira de Espadanedo 8,6 km. 12min.

Monasterio de Montederramo 18,5 km. 15 min.

Capilla de San Antonio y Cruceiro de Marrubio 4,7 km. 10 min.

Castro Caldelas 16 km. 21 min.
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The Ribeira Sacra

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