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28Knit Top

Foundationschapter

632

TYPES OF KNIT FOUNDATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .633

DARTLESS STRETCHY KNITDRAFT 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . .633

DARTLESS FIRM KNITDRAFT 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .635

OVERSIZED KNIT TOPDRAFT 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 636

Cotton Knit Top Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636

Ribbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .637

CROP TOP WITH A MUSCLE SLEEVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .638

KNIT TOP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .639

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KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 633

1/2 "

1 "

X

Starting point

Figure 1

Knit tops are based on the seamless torso foun-dation. Refer to page 385 for the draft. The basic knitfoundations are seamless.Add 3/8-inch seams whenstitching on the overlock/serge machines and 1/2-inchseams for single-stitch machines. Refer to Chapter 27for information about knits. The patterns are drafted

together and separated at the completion of thedraft.

TYPES OF KNITFOUNDATIONS

Draft 1for two-way stretch and tubular knit

Draft 2for firm knits (double knit)

Draft 3for cotton knit oversized T-shirt

Ribbing: refer to page 637There are a number of books that will help withsewing instructions on knits.

DARTLESS STRETCHYKNITDRAFT 1

Pattern Development

Figure 1 Back

Trace the back pattern, starting at shoulder tipand ending at the armhole. Label X at neck.

Shift the pattern upward 1/2 inch and trace 4to 5 inches of the armhole.

Draw the side seam indenting 1" as shown.

Figure 2

XY Front shoulder measurement. (Follow the angleof the shoulderline and mark.)

Draw the adjusted armhole using a French curvefrom Y, blending with the original armhole. Thedart is eliminated.

X

Equals front

shoulder length

Y

Figure 2

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634 Chapter 28

Figures 3a,b Front Neck

Place front pattern on top of the back copy,aligning hip and center lines.

Draw the front neckline only. Label Z (Figure 3a).

If X and Z do not align, draw a line through X

and Z. Mark the center and blend with the backneck and front neck. Draw line from the mark tothe shoulder tip (broken lines original pattern)(Figure 3b).

Separating the Front and Back Patterns

Figure 4

Place paper under the draft; secure and cut theback pattern. LabelKnit back.

Measure the armhole and record.

Figure 5 Trim front neck from original pattern. Label

Knit front.

Trim 1/8 inch from curve of the armhole andblend.

Using one-fourth of the waist and hip measure-ments, draw a reference side seam. Use the linefor fitted garments cut in Lycra-blended fabrics.

Note: When using rib knit, draw straight side seams of front andback patterns to avoid runs in the knit.

Figure 6 Knit Sleeve

Fold paper. Place the basic sleeve front on thepaper with center grain on foldline and trace.

Mark biceps and elbow. Remove. Label the grain-line AB. (Broken line indicates original sleeve.)

Measure in 1/2 inch on biceps line. Mark. Squareup 1/2 inch from mark and label C. Square a newbiceps line from the fold to point C.

Blend a new armhole curve to the sleeve cap.

Square a line from B equal to one-half of the wrist

(plus 1/4 inch) measurement, label D. Draw a slightly inward curved line from D to C.

Z

X

Figure 3a

Z

X Find centerand blend

Figure 3b

Mea

s

ur

e

Centerb

ack

Centerfront

KNIT BACK KNIT FRONT

Trim1/8 "

Line for fitted garment Line for fitted garment

DiscardFigure 4

1/2 "

C

A

1/2 "

D

Grainline

Paper

B

Figure 6

Figure 5

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KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 635

Figures 7, 8 Sleeve Adjustment

Sleeve cap should measure 1/4 inch more thanarmhole (1/2 inch total). Measure the sleeve capand compare with armhole measurement.

If cap measurement is less than the armhole, ex-tend biceps and blend with cap. Figure 7.

If cap measurement is more than needed, measurein from the biceps and blend the new cap. Figure 8.

Draw a line to the elbow or wrist level.

Mark the center cap notch.

Figure 9

Cut the sleeve from paper. Unfold.

Complete the sleeve. LabelKnit sleeve. The sleeveis shaped equally on both sides.

Add seams to all patterns (1/2 inch, or 3/8 inch

for overlock stitch). Notch at center cap.

DARTLESS FIRMKNITDRAFT 2

Figures 1, 2 Trace torso foundation pattern, transferring

shoulder and side dart to the armhole. The arm-holes have been enlarged. The front is greaterthan the back. Measure to find the difference.

Record.Example: The front armhole is 3/4 inch greater.

Add 1/4 inch to the back shoulder.

Subtract 1/4 inch from the front shoulder.

Add 1/2 inch to the back side seam and subtract1/2 inch from the front seam. Draw lines towaist, as illustrated.

Sleeve

The sleeve cap of the basic sleeve should measure

1/2 inchmore thanfront and backarmholes. If itdoesnot, follow the instruction given in Figures 7 and 8.

Measur

e

Measur

e

Blend BlendElbow Elbow

Add

Biceps Biceps

Reduce

Figure 7KNIT SLEEVE

Figure 9

FRONTBACK

1/4 "

1/4 "

1/2 " 1/2 "

Firm knit foundation Firm knit foundation

Trim

Figure 1

Figure 8

Figure 2

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636 Chapter 28

OVERSIZED KNITTOPDRAFT 3

The front and back knit patterns are drafted togetherand separated when the draft has been completed.

Create design variations from this foundation.

Cotton Knit Top DraftThe cotton knit top is based on the stretchy dartlessknit top. If not available, see pages 633 to 635.

Figure 1

Square a line on paper.

Place the front dartless pattern on the square.

Trace the neckline and end at mid-shoulder.

Shift the pattern 1" (more or less)

Trace the remaining pattern and remove.

Draw a line from the shoulder tip to neck.

Lower armhole 1 1/2", or as preferred.

Draw the armhole using the Vary curve.

Measure the armhole. Record in the space pro-vided in the right column.

Place the back dartless pattern on the square andtrace the back neckline for the back knit pattern.

Sleeve Draft

Measurements Needed

Sleeve length _____________.

Half of armhole measurement _____________.

Around hand measurement plus 1" ____________.

Figure 2AB draw a line in middle of the paper equal to

the knit sleeve length, less 1". Square outfrom A and B.

AC 3". Square out from C.

AD one-half of AB. Square out from D. Fold onthe AB line.

AE armhole measurement. Draw the line from A

touching on the biceps line. Label E. Divideinto fourths and follow the illustration.

BF one-half of around hand measurement.

Draw a line from F ending 1/2 inch infrom E. Draw a curved line from E, blend-ing to elbow.

Complete the pattern, cut, and stitch tothe knit top. The sleeve can be modifiedfor other designs.

A

C3/16 "

1/8 "

E

DElbow

BF

Sleevefor knit

foundation

Entrymeasurement

Paper

Figure 2

1-1/2 "

Fo

ld

Extend topreferredlength

Shift Front

Back

Measure

1 "Figure 1

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KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 637

Completing the Patterns

Figure 3

Place paper underneath the pattern and trace theback copy.

Trim the back neck from the front pattern.

RibbingRibbing is a perfect cover for the raw edges of stretchfabrics (neckline, cuffs, and banding at hemlines).Ribbings can be purchased to the length and widthor made from the self-fabric of the knit. Overlock/serge the seams when sewing knits.

Self-Made Ribbing

The width of the knit determines the amount to becut from around the neckline:

Widthdouble the measurement, plus 3/4 inch for3/8-inch seam.

Lengthequals the adjusted neckline. Fold ribbing

length in half and mark.

Joining the Ribbing Seams

Figures 1a,b,cThe joining seam of the ribbing can be at the shoul-der line (Figure 1a) or center back (Figure 1c). Pinribbing to the fabric lying flat (Figure 1a) or to thegarment on the form (Figures 1b and 1c).

Test FitProblems and Solutions

Figures 2a,bDo not trim the ribbing excess until the perfect fit isdetermined. The garment must be able to slide overthe head easily. If too loose, the ribbing will nothug the neck (Figure 2a). Release and stretch more.If too tight, puckers will appear on the garment(Figure 2b). Release and relax the stretch.

BACKknit

(oversize)

FRONTknit

(oversize)

Figure 3

Shoulderstarting point

Center front

Center back

Excess after stretching

Figure 1a

Trim excess at C.B.

Starting point

Figure 1b

Fit problems

Insufficientstretching

Overly stretched

Figure 2a

Figure 1c

Figure 2b

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638 Chapter 28

CROP TOP WITHA MUSCLE SLEEVE

Design Analysis

The knit top fits close to the figure, indicating thata ribbed knit or Lycra should be the fabric of choice.The top fits under the bust and has a scooped neckline.The sleeve fits to the muscular arm, making this anideal garment for exercising. The top can be basedon the stretchy knit foundation.

Figure 1Trace the dartless foundation and draw the top frontand back neckline, as illustrated.

Fold

Fold

Figure 1

Figure 2 Sleeve

Trace the knit sleeve to bicep (broken lines) andremove.

Draw a parallel line 2 inches up from the biceps.

Place the sleeve on the traced copy and pivot3 inches down from cap to the new biceps line.Trace and indent 1/2 inch.

Repeat for the other side of the sleeve.

Blend the capline and curved hemline, followingthe illustration.

The cap should measure 1/2 inch greater than

the armhole. Add to or subtract from the underarmequally.

Pivot Pivot

2 "

Blend

1/2 " 1/2 "

Blend

New bicep

Figure 2

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KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 639

KNIT TOP

Design Analysis

A popular shirt design is based on the oversized cotton knit foun-dation. The top has a placket (see pages 370374 for a guide).

Figure 1

Trace the oversized dartless foundation on the fold.

Placket Inset

Draw a line 3/4" in from fold to the desired length of the placket.

Add a 1/4" seam allowance and cut out this section.

Draw the placket on fold 1 1/2" wide and equal to the length ofthe opening. Add 1/4" seams and notch 3/4" in from the fold toindicate where the collar starts. The placket is stitched from foldto notch and turned to the right side before stitching placket to

garment.

The collar can be cut from knit yardage. To complete a one-piece collar draft, see page 183 for a guide. Ribbed collars may beordered to the size needed from novelty sewing supplies or fromtrim resources.

Sleeve

Trace the sleeve and shorten to desired length and add 1 inch forhemline.

BACK

Fold

Fo

ld

A

B

6 "

FRONT

PLACKET

Cut two

Figure 1

SLEEVE

Gu

ide

line

Collar edge (fold line)

C.B.

Fold line of paper