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INTRODUCTION TO CHILDRENSWEAR 691

Childrenswear ChallengesCreating childrenswear offers some new challenges tothe designer and patternmaker. Comfort, which re-flects good fit, proportion, and function, is nowheremore important than in the creation of childrenswear.

While adults are sometimes willing to sacrifice com-fort for aesthetics, children never are. The business of children is to learn. To successfully accomplish themany activities on which learning hinges, childrenrequire unencumbering and, at the same time, stimu-lating clothes.

Color and Functional ClothingOne of the most stimulating aspects of children’sclothes is the primary palette that remains the fa-vorite of children every season. Fabric, too, must befunctional, and parents frequently demand materialthat requires only limited maintenance. Fibers andfabric types for childrenswear are not much differ-ent from those found in clothes for comparable usesamong adults and teens, although prints, plaids,and stripes are proportioned for the smaller body.

Representative SizesThe discussion of the sizes and shapes of children inthis text includes infants, toddlers, children, preteens,young juniors, and juniors. However, only sizes 3 to 6Xand 7 to 14 (boys’ and girls’) are represented in thepatternmaking illustrations.

Size GroupingSizes for children’s clothing are grouped according tobody circumference and proportion. Overlap betweentoddlers’ and children’s sizes occurs as proportions andheights vary within the age range, almost to the samedegree that those with the 7 to 14 sizes overlap on theupper end with junior sizing. Size groupings reflectchanges in the proportions of children as they passfrom infant (3, 9, 12, 18, or 24 months), through tod-dlers’ (2T, 3T, 4T) to children’s (3, 4, 5, 6, boys’ andgirls’, with 6X for girls only), and into boys’ and girls’sizes (7, 8, 10, 12, and 14). (Size 16 is used for largerboys’ pants.)

Observable DifferencesBody shapes from infants’ through children’s sizeranges are indistinguishable between boys’ andgirls’. Although many differences can be observed instyling and color between boys’ and girls’ clothingfrom infant through sizes 6 and 6X, differences ne-cessitated by form only become a reality at size 7,when physical shapes begin to diverge.

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SIZE CATEGORIESFOR CHILDRENSWEAR

Infants or Babies

Sizes: 3 months, 6 months, 12 months, 18 months,and 24 months. Sizes may also be labeled as Small(S), Medium (M), Large (L), and Extra Large (XL).Sample size: 12 months or Medium.Physical observations: Newborn to children begin-ning to crawl.

ToddlersSizes: 2T, 3T, and 4T (1T may also be considered inthis size range).

Sample size: 3T.Physical observations: Child is walking by thistime. Head seems to sit on shoulder; neck is not de-veloped. Shoulders are rounded and have almost nowidth. Outward thrust of tummy is a prominent fea-ture. Boys’ and girls’ sizes are indistinguishable, andexcept for color difference and dresses, fashion isunisex.

Children

Sizes: Sizing for children within this group is mixed.They are either sized 3 to 6X (X meaning larger thansize 6) for both boys and girls or sized 4 to 6X for girls,and 4 to 7 for boys, with size 3 labeled for toddlers.Sample size: 5.Physical observations: There is rapid growththrough this period. Proportions differ greatly as thetorso remains about the same length, but the legsgrow longer. The protrusion of the stomach is re-duced. Boys and girls have similar shapes at this age,and the waistline, as yet, is not defined. Boys andgirls begin to diverge at age seven.

Boys and Girls (Preteen)Sizes: 7 to 10. Another method for sizing this group isgirls 7 to 14 classified as elementary to junior highschool; boys 8 to 20 classified as elementary to juniorhigh school (with chest measurements used for sizing).Sample size: 10.Physical observations: Figures diverge when boysand girls reach age seven. Major changes are takingplace. Baby fat is replaced with muscle tissue. Slim-ming and lengthening of the torso and limbs occur,but the figure does not, as yet, have defined curves.

Young JuniorsSizes: 10 to 14.Physical observations: There is a jump in growthand the figure is more defined. The torso is longer,a natural waistline appears, and bust and hips

start to take shape in girls. Boys have slim hips,blending into the waistline. For both boys andgirls, this is an interim period when the figurematures at varying stages. Garments within thisupper size range do not always fit the figure well.A better fit may be found in the junior department,with boys’ pants fitting better in a size 16. Slimand Regular sizes are separate labels for girls, andSlim, Regular, and Huskys are labels for boys’pants. This labeling indicates special fits for otherfigure types.

JuniorsSizes: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13.Sample size: 9.Physical observations: The young woman’s figureis developed to almost adult maturity with a definedwaistline; high, rounded breast; and shapely hips.The teenager is now ready to wear garments in thejunior size range. In young men, the figure is devel-oped almost to maturity. Muscle is more definedand hips are slim, blending with the waistline.

SIZING METHODSMeasurement charts for children’s sizes 3 to 6X and7 to 14 are found in Chapter 32. A measurementrecording chart is placed at the back of the text foruse in recording the measurements taken from themeasurement chart or those taken from personalmodel measurements. The chart may be removedand reproduced for future use.

The anatomical changes that take place in chil-dren between ages six and seven tend to interruptthe regular sequence of graded sizes. The measure-ment differences will be noticed in some of thegraded areas of the chart.

The measurement chart offered in this text isone of many such attempts to establish a good set of working measurements for the industry.

It is difficult for manufacturers, patternmakers,and designers to decide which set of measurementsbest represents their consumers. They may use ageor height and weight as the standard upon which todetermine the sample size, and from which to basethe pattern grade.

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INTRODUCTION TO CHILDRENSWEAR 693

Alternate SizingAnother method used for sizing garments uses let-ters rather than numbers, as follows:

XXS size 2/3.

XS

size 4/5.S size 6/7.M size 8.L size 10.XL size 12.XXL size 14.

Large and oversized garments, pants, shorts, andtops are commonly labeled Small, Medium, Large,and Extra Large.

SOURCES OF INSPIRATIONDesigners of childrenswear gain inspiration frommany diverse sources, including those provided byfashion-minded children.

Younger children are influenced by what theysee on TV, in movies, and in books. They want towear clothing displaying their favorite charactersfrom TV ( Sesame Street characters, the Simpsons,Dora the Explorer, Mickey Mouse and others), BritneySpears, Walt Disney movies, Superman, or Twilight themes, to name a few. A manufacturer must be li-censed to use characters based on various televisionshows. A premium is paid to the creator of cartooncharacters that are used on garments. Older chil-dren, while still interested in TV and movie charac-ters, become more interested in fashions that arepart of the “hip hop scene.”

Boys and girls ages 7 to 14 are influenced byfashions of the junior market. They want their gar-ments to reflect those worn by an older sister orbrother or by classmates. They have heroes—keyplayers from football, baseball, basketball, hockey,and other sports. They idolize movie stars andmusic personalities from country, rap, or rock cate-gories and want to dress like them. This infatuationcreates fads in fashion, such as the hip hop influ-ence: bag pant, underwear worn as outerwear, andthe grunge look (over-oversized). Designers whowant to be up to date with the latest fads shouldstudy children at school, on the playground, on TV,and in the movies.

Other sources of inspiration are:

• Trims (lace, rickrack, cording, ruffle trims, braid-ing, appliqués, bows, and so on)

• Closures of unusual design (buttons, zippers,ties, frogs, clasps, ornate metal closures, Velcro,lacings, and others)

• Combinations of fabrics, colors, and textures

Clever usage of all that is available to the designer al-lows for endless creative ideas.The smart designer also shops the market for in-

spiration, in addition to knowing what the compe-tition is doing. When possible, the designer shouldgo to Europe and other fashion centers for inspira-tion and fashion direction. Literature, historicalreferences, and folk costumes often provide themesfor designer collections. Children’s fashion magazinesare a valuable source of fashion direction. A list of magazines, clipping services, and historical booksfollows.

Children’s Fashion ReferencesFashion Magazines and Services

Publications• Bimbi Di Elegantissima (twice a year); in Italian;

includes all ages up to teens• Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boyswear Review

(monthly)• Kids’ Fashions (monthly); merchandising of

childrenswear• Moda Bimbi (three times a year); in Italian• Children’s Business; published monthly by

Fairchild; covers children’s apparel, footwear,toys, and licensing

• Seventeen, Elle (both domestic and French edi-tions), Lei, and occasional childrenswear issuesof Town and Country

• Teens and Boys (monthly); forecasts style trends• Vogue Bambini (four times a year); in Italian;

high-style children’s magazine• Child; a resource for upscale childrenswear from

both domestic and foreign designers• Young Fashions (monthly); fashion magazine for

youthwear• Children’s Clothing, Selma Rosen, Fairchild Publi-

cations, 1983

Website• How to become a childrenswear clothing de-

signer: www.stylecareer.com.

Under “Careers in Fashion,” select “Babies andChildren’s Clothing Designer.”

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Services• FirstVIEW Girls• FirstVIEW Boys• FirstVIEW Baby• D3—Junior Retail Report

The Patricia Brandt CompanyPhone: (323) 650-1222www.patriciabrandtcompany.com

• The Middlemarck Clipping Service; featuressketches of childrenswear around the country

References• Complete Book of Fashion Illustration

(How to Draw Children) by Sharon Tate andMona Edwards, published by Prentice Hall

(1995)• Fashion Illustration for Designersby Kathryn Hagen, published by Prentice Hall(2004)

• Drawing and Designing Children’s and Teenage Fashions, by Patrick John Ireland, published by John Wiley and Sons (1979)

• Inside Fashion Design (chapter 8)by Mona Edwards, Edited by Sharon Tate, pub-

lished by Prentice Hall (2003)• History of Children’s Costumes, Elizabeth Ewing,published by B. T. Batsford (1977)

• Boys’ Fashions, 1885 to 1905, by Donna H. Felger,published by Hobby House Press (1984)

• Children’s Clothes 1939–1970, the Advent of Fash-ion, by Alice Guppy, published by BlandfordPress (1978)

• The Way We Wore: Fashion Illustrations of Chil-dren’s Wear, 1870–1970 by Linda Martin, pub-lished by Encore Editions (1978)