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Chiara Vigo, Master of Sea Silk
I told you a little aboutByssus, called Sea Silkin this post last year, a fibre made from thePinna
Noblis now only found in Sant'Antioco, Sardinia.
Last May I went to visit theMuseo del Bisso [Byssus Museum] in Sant'Antioco and metChiaraVigo, the last master of this ancient art.
The Byssus Museum where you can find Chiara Vigo in Viale Regina Margherita, 111,
Sant'Antioco, Sardinia.
This video seriesexplores theHoly Veil of Manoppello found at theBasilica del Volto Santo di
Manoppello[Basilica of the Holy Face of Manoppello] in the province ofPescara, Italy. Thesecond part of the seriestalks about Chiara Vigo andByssus thread. Signora Vigo travelled to
Manoppello to determine that the Veilwas made ofByssus.
Inside the Byssus Museum in Sant'Antioco are several areas where you can look atByssus in it's
various forms. There are displays of thePinna Noblis, rawByssus as it looks when first
collected, the hand-spun thread, embroideries made withByssus thread and weaving frames with
fabric being woven which hasByssus designs.
When enough people have entered the one-room Museum, Signora Vigo explains the history and
the technique of collecting, processing and using theByssus threads. This is not a commercial
enterprise by any means and there is nothing to purchase.
The Signora however does not keep the thread from you, she hands out raw, spun and treated
thread (it must be dipped in a secret liquid of ancient formula to give it a silky soft texture) foryou to touch and examine. Embroideries and woven pieces are also offered for examination.
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Our group had people from many far away places and she gave each of us who were from other
countries a length ofByssus thread and instructed us to tell people and especially children about
Byssus. She promised me that if I could get a group of children to write to her from Canada, shewould produce an embroidery inByssus thread for them. The walls of the Museum are covered
in letters from children around the world.
Unfortunately, you cannot see the sparkle that this thread has from this scan. It sparkles like gold
and changes colour depending on the direction of the light. It is so very soft and makes youunderstand instantly why it is called Sea Silk.
Photo by Roberto Rossi.
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Go toRoberto Rossi's websiteto see more great photos ofChiara Vigo,Byssus and the Museum
or go toChiara Vigo's blogto learn more.Posted by Jeanine in Canada at10:07 AM0 comments Links to this post
Labels:Byssus,Chiara Vigo,Sardinia
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Punto Antico Bullion Flowers and a new book
I want to tell you about the sixth book on Punto Antico by theAssociation Il Punto Antico
which I picked up while in Italy this last time:
Tasteful modern interpretations of this Italian technique designed byBruna Gubbini. This latest
book is 155 pages and has a lot of designs for fun projects like box covers and needle books andmore traditional fare like tablecloths but done in a completely modern way using the latest
fabrics (likeGraziano gingham!) and coloured threads. Text is Italian and English and there are
many step-by-step instructions covering stitches not covered in the previous books.
One of the elements of SignoraBruna's work which has long fascinated me is herBullion
Flower. I have tried it in the past but just couldn't get the hang of it. This latest book has step-by-
step instructions and I finally managed to produce a nice one so I'm showing you how herebelow. These Bullion Flowers are fantastically textured and create nice little decorative
elements to any work ofPunto Antico.
You will need a milliner's needle for best results. I used#12 Ritorto Fiorentino pearl cottonandsome 38ctSotema 20LItalian linen.
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To start, you need to build yourself a support/guide. I started the thread with a waste knot:
Go over 4 ground threads for each stitch. Pull a little firmly to open up small holes which you'll
need later for the Bullions.
Don't pull too tightly though, your stitches should be firm and not loose otherwise they will show
later.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ty9qVtHUDmU/TiiE4hgYJTI/AAAAAAAABVo/ikmLMba1P54/s1600/BullionFlower-2.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dCCp7BhmzvU/TiiE3JA5F5I/AAAAAAAABVk/q4exwNVGJGI/s1600/BullionFlower-1.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ty9qVtHUDmU/TiiE4hgYJTI/AAAAAAAABVo/ikmLMba1P54/s1600/BullionFlower-2.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dCCp7BhmzvU/TiiE3JA5F5I/AAAAAAAABVk/q4exwNVGJGI/s1600/BullionFlower-1.jpg7/28/2019 Chiara Vigo
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Once you get to this point, turn the work 45 degrees and continue as before to complete the
"cross" shape.
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Each corner has two Bullions, pull tight so that they are small and the centre of the "cross" shape
opens up.
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Working clockwise, make two Bullions on all outside corners.
Not bad, Bruna Gubbini's are truly beautiful but this one turned out okay for me although I hadto do a few tries to get my Bullions small enough to fit them all around the "cross" and still have
a hole in the centre.
What do you think? In groups they are magnificent or they can be used as the centre of a bigger
Satin Stitched flower. Doing a few of them will definitely get you over any Bullion Knot fear
you might have! The raised element sits very nicely on top of the fabric providing texture to yourwork.
If you would like to read more about the author, go toTuttoricamoand click on the British flag
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-25Ge21WH0cg/TiiE_GkUTKI/AAAAAAAABV8/sqfLIVdKD0Q/s1600/BullionFlower-7.jpghttp://www.tuttoricamo.com/http://www.tuttoricamo.com/http://www.tuttoricamo.com/http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lmsHanWJGN0/TiiFApqOPpI/AAAAAAAABWA/MIIc4sxkQLI/s1600/BullionFlower-8.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-25Ge21WH0cg/TiiE_GkUTKI/AAAAAAAABV8/sqfLIVdKD0Q/s1600/BullionFlower-7.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lmsHanWJGN0/TiiFApqOPpI/AAAAAAAABWA/MIIc4sxkQLI/s1600/BullionFlower-8.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-25Ge21WH0cg/TiiE_GkUTKI/AAAAAAAABV8/sqfLIVdKD0Q/s1600/BullionFlower-7.jpghttp://www.tuttoricamo.com/7/28/2019 Chiara Vigo
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for the English pages, then click on "Prominent Characters", then under the "Today" column
you'll findBruna Gubbini. I watched her buying some fun fabrics at a quilting booth at theItalia
Invita Forum... it make me wonder what lovely creations she'll have in her next book!
This book can be purchased online directly from theAssociazione Il Punto Antico's editorial
website.Posted by Jeanine in Canada at1:20 PM2 comments Links to this postLabels:books,Bruna Gubbini,Punto Antico
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Needle-Tatted Jewelry
We looked at someFilet Lace jewelry here, so now let's look at some Needle-Tatted jewelry!
Alicja Kwartnikhas a new book out and this one is totally dedicated to Needle-Tatted jewelry:
Needle tatting is simpler than shuttle tattling (so it says in the introduction ofCreare Gioielli
[Create Jewelry]) and is also better suited to individual creativity.
"Creating necklaces, bracelets and earrings has amused us for years. Making original and
unique jewelry which goes perfectly with our own style and clothing gives us great satisfaction."
Alicja invites the reader to try something new, to add semi-precious stones, crystals, beads and
other decorative elements to theirNeedle-Tatted jewelry choosing from the vast selection of
threads which are available on the market today.
The book has 10 projects which then branch off and show you how to create many more once
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you have understood the basics of attaching things like beads, closure hardware, hooks for
earrings and the like. Each project teaches a different method and at the end of the book there are
lots of colour photos of different ideas for other projects.
Clear and precise colour step-by-step photos and illustrations are found throughout:
"At the end of this book, you will have acquired the skill to create your own jewelry. Ideas for
getting started can be found in any Tatting publication, for example you can take an elementfrom a doily and make it into a beautiful necklace, bracelet or pair of earrings."
Suitable for both beginners and experts alike, Creare Gioielli is 64 pages of inspiration tostimulate your creativity! I don't doNeedle Tatting, but I really want to make some of the
earrings in this book!
Posted by Jeanine in Canada at11:54 AM1 comments Links to this post
Labels:Alicja Kwartnik,books,Needle Tatting
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Needlework ribbons
At theItalia Invita Forum in 2009, designerGuido Faurorequested the collaboration of the
lacemakers and embroiderers who were exhibiting at the Forum for help in creating two bridalbouquets, one of needlework flowers and one of needlework ribbons to go with his cut paper
bouquet for his display corresponding with the Forum's theme ofWeddings Italian Style.
Over 50 exhibitors answered the call and produced some incredible needlework flowers andribbons.
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10/19
Guido Fauro's cut paper bouquet:
The floral bouquet:
And the ribbon bouquet:
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11/19
In the July/August 2011 issue ofPiecework, you can find my article on these bouquets and a
http://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/default-110607.asphttp://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/default-110607.asphttp://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/default-110607.asphttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bnQmELU_A1A/Thi1iFq20-I/AAAAAAAABU8/AwkiWXQqSF0/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-3.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ggkDAsiHXVU/Thi1gkznzHI/AAAAAAAABU4/EdiTzXtbiZM/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-2.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MzCXkmlxghA/Thi1fbBEkEI/AAAAAAAABU0/jUfmgScdE6Y/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-1.jpghttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bnQmELU_A1A/Thi1iFq20-I/AAAAAAAABU8/AwkiWXQqSF0/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-3.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ggkDAsiHXVU/Thi1gkznzHI/AAAAAAAABU4/EdiTzXtbiZM/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-2.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MzCXkmlxghA/Thi1fbBEkEI/AAAAAAAABU0/jUfmgScdE6Y/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-1.jpghttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bnQmELU_A1A/Thi1iFq20-I/AAAAAAAABU8/AwkiWXQqSF0/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-3.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ggkDAsiHXVU/Thi1gkznzHI/AAAAAAAABU4/EdiTzXtbiZM/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-2.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MzCXkmlxghA/Thi1fbBEkEI/AAAAAAAABU0/jUfmgScdE6Y/s1600/BouquetNastriniLuisa-1.jpghttp://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/default-110607.asp7/28/2019 Chiara Vigo
12/19
project of the two intricate needle lace and embroidered ribbons by the maestraElisabetta Holzer
Spinelliwhich were included in theItalia Invita ribbon bouquet.
Many thanks to Luisa for the use of her photos!Posted by Jeanine in Canada at8:22 AM1 comments Links to this post
Labels:Elisabetta Holzer Spinelli,Italia Invita,Piecework
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Round Knotted Netting
I told you aboutEnza Termine ofSicilyand herRound Filet Nettingin this post herelast year but
I didn't have any photos of my own to show you her exquisite work.
That has changed, look what came in the mail today!
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13/19
Hand-made knotted netting made with gold thread byEnza Termine.
Hand-maderete a rosoni[circular netting] byEnza Termine.
Today I received two pieces hand-made byEnza herself and they are marvelous! I can't stoplooking at them.
Enza has a tutorial (in Italian) on her website for the art ofRound Knotted Netting, and you can
find an English translation of an article she wrote on the subject atTuttoricamo, click on theBritish Flag for the English pages, then click on "Techniques", then "Filet and Bosa Filet", then
click on the word "circular" in the fifth paragraph. There are also some great tutorials in English
atRita Bartholomew's website here. There is a biton circular netting here.
Thank you Enza!!Posted by Jeanine in Canada at4:22 PM2 comments Links to this postLabels:Enza Termine,Filet lace,rete a rosoni,Sicily
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14/19
Monday, July 4, 2011
Goldwork in Bologna
Some of the best places to see needlework when you're traveling is in religious buildings. There
are usually excellent examples of the best needlework as historically the Church had money tospend and the habit of conserving their embroideries well.
TheBasilica of San Francescoin Bologna is no exception, when we walked into the 13th
century building I was immediately struck by a stunning Goldworkaltarcloth:
Besides couched gold threads there are also areas of raised plating to accent the turn-over partsof the leaves.
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15/19
Jewels and other ornaments are worked right into this amazing piece.
Bobbin lace at the top made of gold thread and gold fringe at the bottom!
This altarcloth was a work of particular magnificence, utilizing many of the techniques and
materials ofGoldworkembroidery. It was so incredible and so well executed! IfGoldworkinterests you and you're in Bologna, don't miss the opportunity to study this piece!
There was also a lot of other needlework on display in the Basilica, like cutwork and needlelace
but we'll look at those another time.Posted by Jeanine in Canada at5:22 PM3 comments Links to this post
Labels:Bologna,Goldwork
Sunday, July 3, 2011
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16/19
Anghiari Embroidery
Anghiari is a town in Tuscany located northeast ofArezzo. The town is perhaps most well-
known for theBattle of Anghiari fought in 1440 and painted byLeonardo DaVinci in a fresco atthePalazzo Vecchio inFlorence between 1504 and 1505. The fresco was lost but a drawing by
Peter Paul Rubens around 1603 is said to be a copy of the center scene, perhaps you recognize it:
The Battle of the Standardby Peter Paul Rubens, image taken fromWikipedia.
In the early twentieth century Anghiari was, like many Italian towns, participating in an arts and
crafts movement with laboratories of needlework springing up all over Italy to provide womenwith a means to earn money and support their families. Ladies of the aristocracy promoted and
supported these schools and workshops and much of the handiworks produced were exported to
other countries for sale.
A lady from the UK by the name ofBeatrice Lyle Smith living nearAnghiari was instrumentalin the production ofAnghiari Embroideries beginning around 1901.
A photo from the Italian Almanac for 1904 shows a picture of the rustic style ofAnghiari
Embroideries:
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17/19
From the collection of Bianca Rosa Bellomo, Italy. Almanacco Italiano 1904, R. Bemporad e Fo.
Editori, Firenze, pg. 336.
The world had already seen Anghiari Embroideries displayed at theInternational Exhibition ofModern Decorative Arts in Turin in 1902 resulting in a flood of orders and praise. I saw the
catalogue of this exposition sitting on the shelf in one of the displays in theLiberty House
Museum in Chiaramonte Gulfi and begged the curators to let me look at it but alas, they refused.
In 1904 at the World's Fair in St. Louis, Missouri "Ethle-Beatrice Smith, Arezzo", took a gold
medal for hand embroidery. I have been unsuccessful in finding out more about this prize-winning piece, the people at the 1904 World's Fair Museum tell me it is unlikely that a photo
would have been taken of it, even though it won a gold medal.
Anghiari Embroideries are mentioned in reviews of the works at the1906 World's Fair in
Milanand other international exhibitions in Europe during the early part of the 20th century.
In 1907 in Venice at the Seventh International Exposition of the Arts, Anghiari Embroidery wasfeatured as part of a doorway exhibit with "Bice Smith" mentioned:
From the collection of Claudio Romeo, Italy.
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18/19
Close up detail of the photo above. From the collection of Claudio Romeo, Italy.
From the collection of Bianca Rosa Bellomo, Italy.
No trace of existing pieces ofAnghiari Embroidery in Italy have been found, as the works were
mostly made for export to the United States, I had hoped to find some examples on this side ofthe Atlantic, but I have been unsuccessful so far.
More precise information on the execution ofAnghiari Embroidery and the information whichhas been found can be read atTuttoRicamo, click on the British flag for the English version, then
"Techniques", then "Anghiari Embroideries".
If you know anything or have seen anything ofAnghiari Embroideries in the US or elsewhere,would you leave a comment below?
Heartfelt thanks go to Claudio Romeo and Bianca Rosa Bellomo for permission to use theirphotos!Posted by Jeanine in Canada at12:53 PM0 comments Links to this post
Labels:Anghiari,Beatrice Lyle Smith,World's Fair
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