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    Please refer to the full tutorial HERE forstep-by-step instructions and pictures. For the

    contrast bottom style pouches, simply cut two pieces of each measurement listed in thechart by the width of the pouch, and sew together using a 1/2" seam allowance. So forthe medium size pouch you'll cut two pieces 4.5" tall by 12" wide and two pieces 5.5"

    tall by 12" wide, thus making the exterior pieces.
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    The medium size pouch is patchwork using anUmbrella PrintsTrimmings pack, ifyou've never seen their fabrics I suggest you check them out, all handprinted inAustralia. Love their basecloth and style.

    The small pouch main fabric is handprinted by my friendLesliewho runsMaze & Vale,where she sells herhandprinted fabricand goodies. She's hosting ahandprinted fabricswap now which is really cool.The bottom contrast band to all the pouches isRobert Kaufman cotton linen in denim

    purchased atPink Chalk Fabrics. Love this stuff, it's like a favorite pair of jeans.The yellow fabric (large pouch) isPure ElementsinEmpire YellowbyArt GalleryFabrics, believe me, you need every color.
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    And last but not least, my zippers all were purchased fromZipiton Etsy from my lovley(and fellow Wisconsinite!) Jennie. She's the coolest, plus her zippers are beautiful!
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    Happy sewing everyone!!!
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    Zip on over toA Lemon Squeezy Hometoday and visit Christie's blog forPurse WeekContest. Today I'm sharing my Scrappy Make-up Pouch Tutorial.
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    name is melissa and i like to make things.

    fabric shop


    you can email me at

    looking for something?
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    good things summer camp adventure club exploded flowers- fong qi wei interiors inspiration from lovely sweet william

    things to make and do

    hand applique any-kind-of-fruit cake recycled t-shirt skirts paper globe decorations beach dress tutorial dress up wings embroidered brooch tutorial housewife needlecase tutorial homemade crackers pepperkake recipe french press cosy tutorial all about gocco patchwork ball tutorial wrap dress (2-3T, sewn) shoulder bag tutorial simple fingerless gloves pattern 'blossom' knitted baby dress


    July 2012 June 2012 May 2012 April 2012 March 2012 February 2012 January 2012 December 2011 November 2011 October 2011

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    a little case to keep seeds in|Main|time management skills

    shoulder bag tutorial

    Here's a rough pattern and guide for making a shoulder bag likeone of these, as

    promised. These are really easy to make, and I always have so much fun choosingfabrics and buttons for them. I have to warn you however that i'm not very good atexplaining things in words, so I hope you can understand my general meaning in thesedirections! Please email me if you need further instruction, and I'll be happy to help! Icouldn't work out how to do a PDF file so this is a very basic and d-i-y version of a

    pattern! As you can see, I've drawn a tiny, rough and very much NOT-to-scale outlineof the pattern which you will need to draw to the proper measurements yourself onsome tracing paper or a piece of newspaper. It doesn't matter if it's not quite right, aslong as it's symmetrical. The entire length of the pattern is 28 inches. This will make a

    bag that's a good size for your wallet, keys and a few books, but it's easy to make it a bitdeeper or the strap a bit longer, if you wish. Just add a couple of extra inches. Umm,

    and that measurement on the strap should say 18". Sorry about that.
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    Once you've drawn and cut out your pattern, cut two from your chosen bag fabric, andtwo from your lining fabric. I usually use recycled fabrics- old curtains, blankets,vintage bits and pieces... but you could use anything that takes your fancy. Somethingfairly sturdy for the outside works best though. After cutting these out, I also cut a

    pocket for the inside, I use some of the outer fabric for this, cut into a rectangle about 8"

    X 6.5". Then I cut a strip measuring 5" X 1.5" to make a loop with which to fasten thebag to a button, if you choose to use this method. You could also make two ties tofasten, or use velcro or a snap fastener.

    1. Start with your outer bag pieces. Place right sides together, and sew the seams at eachedge, between the *s on the pattern, like this:

    2. Then open out the piece so that the seams are at the front and back of the bag. Sewalong the bottom seam.
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    5. Overlock or zig-zag the top edge of your pocket. Press the edge down about half aninch, and top-stitch. Then press your pocket half an inch all around. Pin to the outside ofthe lining where you would like it, and stitch it down.

    6. Make your loop for the button. Press in both edges of the strip towards the centre,then fold in half and press again. Sew the edges together (this is just like a bias strip.)
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    7. Now sew the lining and outer pieces together. Place one inside the other, right sidestogether. Match centre seams, and pin. Insert your loop between the two layers on oneside of the bag, so the ends of the loop are sticking out, and pin it securely.

    8. Sew about 1/4" from the edge, all along both sides of the bag, right up to the topedges.
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    9. Now clip like mad around the curved edges, nearly to the seam.

    10. Turn the bag right-way-out through the gap in the lining. Now press all around theedges of the bag where you have sewn, so that both layers 'sit' nicely. Trim the tops ofthe straps so they're even and of equal length.
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    11. Sew the top of the strap together- at just the outer pieces. Place right sides together,and sew a 1/4" seam. (This is a bit fiddly under the machine, but it's okay.) Press down.Then tuck in the lining pieces at this point and hand-stitch it closed.

    9. Press the strap again and if you are happy with everything, top-stitch a 1/4" seam allaround the edges of the bag. Hand-sew the gap in the lining closed. And hand-sew a big

    button on the front of the bag, in such a position so the loop will fit nicely around it.
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    10. Ta Da! Enjoy your new bag! I'm off to eat this chocolate.

    p.s. please email me a picture if you try this out because I'd love to see it! Also, this ismy first time doing instructions like these, so please let me know if I need to makecorrections. Thanks!
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    This is the new bag I made to take back to work this term. It took less than an hour from

    choosing the fabric to dumping my junk in it. In fact this tutorial took waaaayyy longer than the

    bag ! (the colours are great in real life but the orange doesn't photograph very well - sorry )

    This pattern is on a piece of A4 paper so I'm sure you can work it out from that. It needs to be

    placed in the fold of your fabric as marked.

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    You will need:

    Using the pattern piece and cutting on the fold of your fabrics.

    2 pieces in your handbag fabric

    2 pieces in your lining fabric

    2 pieces in wadding or batting to give your bag a bit of body.

    1 magnetic purse snap (optional)

    2 x 6 1/2 inch squares of fabric for the pocket (optional).

    2 strips of fabric 3 inches x approx 29 inches for the strap

    1 strip of wadding about 2 1/2 inches by 29

    2 large Buttons

    Start with the pocket. Place your squares right sides together and sew around 1/4 in ch in from

    the edge. Leave a gap for turning (maybe 3 inches). Snip off the corners being careful not to

    cut your stitching.

    Turn right sides out through the gap. . You might like to iron it. I like to do one line of stitchingacross what will be the top of the pocket but that is just for looks.

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    Pin your pocket to the right side of one of your bag linings. Sew around the sides and bottom

    of your pocket being sure to catch the gap you had for turning in your stitching.

    I like to do two lines - looks good and adds a bit of strength too.

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    Now put your other lining piece right sides together with the pocketed one and sew around

    the bag, again leaving a turning gap at the bottom.

    Take your bag fabric pieces and affix your wadding or batting to the wrong side of each piece

    (if it is fuseable). You need to sew all these four pieces at the same time. Your fabrics need to

    be right side together with the wadding on the outer of each. (check out the pic above if it

    doesn't make sense) Pinning might help stop these from moving too much.

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    Sew around the sides and base of the bag with a 1/4 inch seam. You may want to clip the

    corners , this will help your curves be nice and smooth and curvacious. Turn the bag right side


    Now with the bag right side out- slip it into your lining. (This means you will have the right

    sides of your lining where the pocket is, against the right sides of the bag.)

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    Sew around the top opening of the bag.

    Turn it all right side out through the gap

    in the bottom of the lining. Then tuck the lining inside the bag, smoothing it as you go. Pin

    around the top and topstitch.

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    This is when I like to add magnetic

    snaps. Putting your hand inside the bag through the lining gap you can poke your snaps

    through and affix them. Some people like to put a little circle of cardboard on the inside but

    just use a scrap of wadding or wadding reinforced with some interfacing.

    Then that is it for the bag , you can hand sew or machine sew the gap in the lining closed.

    The strap is super easy- Just place your pieces right sides together and sew along the length of

    the strip on both sides. You could add your wadding at this stage and sew it in but my fabric is

    a bit thick so it will be hard to turn, so I didn't add it yet.

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    Turn right sides out so you have a long tube. Then using a safety pin I just thread in a long strip

    of wadding for body.

    Tuck in your ends, either on an angle or straight across and topstitch all around, ,making sure

    you catch the ends into your sewing.

    Sew the strap to the bag - you can do this by hand or machine - add some buttons for

    decoration and you are done.

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    Obviously you can jazz this up as much as you want - maybe patchwork some fabric togetherfirst, add some trims, super easy and versatile ! Hope you like it!

    Boy's Drawstring Backpack from Khaki Pants Tutorial
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    If you're stopping over fromMADE, thanks for visiting and be sure to take a look around at my other stuff. Let's hear it for the boys!

    Have a few old pairs of khaki pants laying around? Maybe even some with a few stainson them? Here's your chance to turn your husband's old khaki pants into a super cooldrawstring backpack for your little guy.

    You'll need:one pair khaki pants (actually enough fabric for the exterior of 2 backpacks)1/2 yard for lining fabricscraps for front zipper pocket1/8" cotton cording (approx. 3 yards), I found mine at Home Depot - 45' for under $3,

    but you can also get cording at your local fabric 8" zipperthread!

    Cut your pieces:First, cut your pieces from the khaki pants. Cut across the crotch section (like you'remaking short shorts). Then cut up the inseam of each leg of your pants. Open up thefabric. Cut two pieces 13" wide by 16" tall.I chose to include the side seam towards the lower half of the fabric, but you can place itwherever works for your particular pair of pants.
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    From your lining fabric, cut 2 pieces 13" wide by 16" tall. For the zipper portion of thebag cut two pieces 3" tall by 13" wide, two pieces 4.5" tall by 13" wide, and four pieces

    2" tall by 4" wide.

    Then cut two tabs that will attach the cording to the backpack 2" tall by 4" wide. Foldthem in half lengthwise right sides together and sew {1/4" seam allowance}. Turn rightside out and press. Set aside.

    Sew the zipper pocket: (you can omit the zipper and just make this portion a simplepatchwork if don't want a zippered pocket or if you really don't like sewing withzippers, but come on, give it a try, it's fun!)
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    Sandwich your zipper between two of the four small pieces, fabric right sides together.Sew a 1/2" seam being sure not to hit the little metal parts on your zipper. Flip the

    pieces wrong sides together and iron.

    Topstitch with about an 1/8" seam and then again with another line of topstitching abouta 1/4" from the first line. Add the same pieces sewn the same way to the other side ofthe zipper.
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    Now take the 4.5" tall pieces and sandwich them around the top long edge of the zipperright sides facing together. Sew using a zipper foot using a 1/4" seam allowance. Flipwrong sides together and press. Next take the two 3" tall pieces and sew them to

    the bottom long edge of the zipper.
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    Flip wrong sides together and press. Switch back to your regular sewing foot andtopstich on both the top and bottom long edges of the zipper using about an 1/8" seamallowance.
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    Take the top of your assembled pocket piece and press it down about a 1/2 inch. Openup the flap you just pressed (and making sure the bottom of the assembled pocket piecealigns with the bottom of the exterior piece) and sew the pieces together, sewing alongthat ironed crease.
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    Fold the pocket piece down and topstitch along the top edge. Baste your pocket piece tothe exterior of the bag about a 1/4" from the edge on the two sides and bottom. {Now is

    a great time to add some detail to the top of your bag such as a freezer paper stencil,applique or even a patch.}
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    Take the two tabs you made earlier and place them about 1.5" from the bottoms of thebag on either side with the raw edges lining up with the raw edges of the exterior of the

    bag. Baste.
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    Then, make two marks on either side of the top of the wrong side of the exterior of thebag. The first mark is 1/2" from the top and the second mark 3/4" from the first mark.

    You will be leaving a gap in between these two marks -- this will be part of the casingfor the drawstrings.
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    Place your two exterior pieces right sides together. Sew together using a 1/2" seamallowance, leaving the space between your two markings open.
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    Next, place the lining pieces right sides together and sew using a 1/2" seam allowanceleaving a 4-5" opening in the bottom for turning.
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    Flip the lining piece right side out and place inside the exterior of the bag (right sidesfacing together). Sew around the top edge of the bag using a 1/2" seam allowance.
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    Turn bag right side out through the opening in the lining. Sew the opening shut using asmall seam allowance. Press the top edge of the bag.

    Sew around the top of the bag using about a 5/8" seam allowance (this is making thecasing for the drawstrings).
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    tutorial: recycled reusable sandwich bag


    If you're stopping in fromSew Much Ado, thanks! And don't forget to see all the GoGreen month projects on Abby's blog this month!'.jpg
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    You'll need:
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    Sew the bag:
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    Place exterior pieces RIGHT sides together and sew along both sides and bottom.

    Repeat for lining fabric.
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    Sew around top of sandwich bag leaving a 2-3" opening for turning. Turn right side outthrough hole. Press.

    Topstitch around entire opening of bag.

    Sewing on the velcro:
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    Cut a strip of velcro approximately 5.5" long. Pin in place on lining. Sew around allfour sides of velcro. Repeat for other side of velcro.
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    If you want to add a special touch, replace the khaki pants pocket button with a prettyone. You can even personalize them with a freezer paper stencil. Another optionwould be to skip the accent exterior fabric and grab some fabric markers and let

    your kids decorate their own bags!

    Slip in your sandwich, tuck in a little note, add a mint or piece of candy for after lunchand you're set! Yum!
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    diaper pouch tutorial


    I'm happy to be a part ofluvinthemommyhood'sbaby bonanza today, with a nice littlebreak from all things kitchen!

    yes, this would be my version of a diaper keeper. I made this one with myself in mind.I just needed to be able to actually see how many diapers I had in the pouch, otherwiseI'd get down to one diaper and be on an all-day outing. Not good.
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    1/3 yard linen (you'll have plenty of scraps leftover)fabric scrapscotton webbing 1.5" wide - 8" longvelcro (3/4" wide by 1.25")fusible fleece - you could also use cotton battingsewing machine, thread, pins, etc.

    I was surprised at how quick this project is, so definitely churn some out for friends andfamily!

    Cut the pieces:
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    {pictured above are the materials for the butterfly print version - but you get the idea}From the linen cut 2 pieces 8.5" wide by 5" tall. Also cut 2 pieces 8.5" wide by 10" tall

    - this will be your lining. From your scraps (and feel free to make thesestrips patchwork, too) end up with 2 pieces 8.5" wide by 3.5" tall and 2 pieces 8.5" wideby 2" tall for the version shown with the butterfly print.

    {For the blue version cut 2 pieces 8.5"wide by 3.5" tall of linen and 2 pieces 8.5" wideby 6.5" tall of the blue print - sew these two together and they make up the exterior ofthe pouch.}

    Cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece 8.5"wide by 9.5" tall.

    Make the exterior:
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    Sew on the fuzzy piece of the velcro about two inches down and centered on one of theexterior pieces (this will be the front of the diaper keeper).
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    With RIGHT sides facing, sew the two exterior pieces together using a 1/2" seamallowance around both sides and bottom.
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    Pinch the corners together and sew a straight stitch 1" from the point. Do this for bothcorners. Clip corners.

    Make the lining:
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    With RIGHT sides facing, sew the lining together on the sides and bottom, but this timeleave a 3" opening at the bottom (this will be for turning later). Box the corners as youdid with the exterior.

    Attach the cotton webbing:
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    Baste the cotton webbing to the RIGHT side of the exterior piece at the back of thediaper keeper. Another option on this step would be to make a fabric strap. If you douse the cotton webbing I would recommend getting a fairly thin one (mine was fromHancock Fabrics), some webbing is much thicker than others.

    Assembling the diaper keeper:
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    With the RIGHT sides facing, slip the exterior into the lining, matching up the top andside seams, pin and sew all the way around the top with a 1/2" seam allowance.
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    Be sure to tuck the cotton webbing down into the diaper keeper.

    Pull the exterior through the opening you left in the lining. Poke out corners.
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    Sew the opening shut with a very small seam allowance, or sew by hand.
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    Push the lining into the diaper keeper. Since the lining was a 1/2" taller than theexterior, it'll form a nice border along the top edge of the diaper keeper.

    Press and stitch "in the ditch" all around the diaper keeper.

    Finish the strap:Pull the cotton webbing around to the front and adjust as necessary to line up with thefuzzy part of the velcro.

    Turn under the webbing twice and pin on the vecro. Take your time and sew on thehook part of the velcro at the end of the strap.
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    Fill with 3-4 diapers, travel wipes, and maybe even a tube of diaper cream and you're allset!
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    the library tote tutorial


    {If you're stopping over fromKojo Designs, welcome!}

    Here's a fun tote bag project I thunk up (yes, thunk) the other day. Of course there aretons of ways to make a tote bag, but I thought this one was fun and gives you a lot ofoptions no less!

    | The Library Tote Tutorial |
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    Whether you like things scrappy or streamlined, this bag is ready to go when you are.Take it to the library or to the park, it's big enough for all the essentials.
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    1/2 yard exterior fabric1/2 yard lining (if you choose to use any)

    1/2 yard for straps, or cotton webbing or a handle type you preferbias tape - handmade or store boughtthread, sewing machinewater soluble pen

    pattern pieces

    {1/2" seam allowances throughout, unless indicated differently}

    Cut and prepare pieces:Cut two pieces from the main pattern piece out of the exterior fabric. Also cute two

    pieces of the lining fabric if you're using a lining. You don't have to use a lining theway the bag is constructed, but if you want to use a lighter weight fabric on the exterior,you'll probably want to use a lining.

    Cut two pocket pieces. One of which will be the lining of the pocket.

    Cut strap pieces: cut two pieces 6" tall by 24-27" long, depending on how long youwant your handles to be.

    Cut reinforcement pieces: these are on the inside of the bag, they can add a decorative

    or fun touch if you'd like, cut two pieces 3" tall by 13" wide. Iron one long edge of eachpiece WRONG sides facing by 1/2"
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    Make Straps:

    Take the long strap pieces, fold in half the long ways, and press. Open up, fold rawedges to the center crease and press.
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    Fold in half again and press.
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    Sew down the length of the strap with the first row of stitching at 3/8" and the secondline of stitching at about 1/8" on each side of the strap. Repeat for other strap. Setaside.

    Make pocket:Make these as patchworky as you'd like. (And, sorry, I didn't take pictures of makingthe pocket, let me know if you need help on this.) Place pocket pieces RIGHT sidestogether, sew using a 1/2" seam allowance all the way around the edge of the pocket,leaving a 2" opening on the bottom side of the pocket piece. Clip corners and turn rightside out through the hole you left at the bottom. Press. Topstitch on the TOP edge ofthe pocket only. I did two rows of stitching about 1/8" and 1/4" from the top. Set aside.

    Assemble bag exteriors:
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    Take your exterior pieces (making sure you've marked the corner darts - those littlepizza shaped pieces - on each piece with a water soluble pen) and sew the darts in thecorner of each side of the exterior pieces.
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    Align the two edge dots with fabric RIGHT sides together and stitch along the line tothe upper dot of the 'wedge'. Repeat this for both corners for all main bag pieces.
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    If you're using a lining, take the exterior pieces and place them RIGHT sides togetherwith the lining pieces and pin together. If you're NOT using a lining read on...

    Pin the pocket to the front of one exterior piece, making sure it's centered.
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    Sew pocket onto front of one exterior piece. I used two rows of stitching along thepocket sides and bottom.
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    Align strap pieces with the raw edges of the top of the bag, spacing them equally from

    both sides, leaving about 3.5" between the straps (see the tiny little red arrow lineabove). Be sure not to twist the strap at this point!

    Next, align the reinforcement piece with the unfolded edge at the top of the bag.
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    Pin and sew using a 1/2" seam allowance.
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    Flip and press so that the WRONG sides are facing.

    Topstitch at the top of the bag and again at the bottom of the reinforcement strip.Repeat for other side of bag.

    Finishing the bag:
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    Take both assembled exterior pieces and place them WRONG sides facing (or liningRIGHT sides facing if you chose to do a lining).
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    Baste along both sides and bottom of bag using a 1/2" seam allowance.

    Trim seam allowances to about 1/4" from the basting line of stitches.
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    Next, take your bias tape and sandwich it along the sides and bottom of the tote and sewinto place. Be sure to tuck in the raw edges of the tape by folding them under. Sewingon the bias tape can be a bit tedious, especially with thinner bias tapes (I made my biastape strip 1.75" wide), but just take your time and go slow, this is the part that will reallyshow the quality of your work!
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    That's it! Fill it with books, sling it on your shoulder and you're off to the library!

    {Just wanted to add that for the patchwork/scrap type bag, I made my own bias tapewith scraps as well as some of the strap piece, the pocket, and the reinforcement pieces.

    The pocket was made using nine 3.5" squares and sewn using a 1/2" seam allowance.}

    Terms of use: For personal use only please.
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    summer madras tote pattern


    [Re-posting this tutorial here in case you missed it, I shared it a couple weeks ago


    So honored that Kathleen asked me to join in on the fun offree pattern month. Therehas been so many awesome patterns already, and hopefully you'll find this one handyfor summer.
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    I scored lots of madras last week for $2 a yard and couldn't think of a better project thana fun and functional summer tote.
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    There's always room in your collection for another bag, right?! I hope so.
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    The best part is that the exterior and lining of the bag is made with 1/2 yard cuts, so Ithink in total my bag cost me around $8, not to shabby. Plus I won't feel bad kicking it

    around at the library, ice cream shop, and around town.
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    With two exterior front pockets my super important stuff won't ever get lost at thebottom of the bag, and this tote is a big one.

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    1/2 yard exterior1/2 yard lining1/2 yard cotton canvas - used as interfacingcotton webbing (or sometimes called cotton belting) for handlessmall strip of straight grain double fold bias tape, you can make it yourself with a pieceof scrap!size 14 needle

    Cut:2 pieces of each exterior, lining, and canvas to 17" wide by16.5" tall.

    1 piece of each exterior, lining, and canvas to 17" wide by 9" tall1 piece for the bias tape 17" wide by 2.5" tall2 - 24" pieces of cotton webbing

    [1/2" seam allowance included unless otherwise noted]

    Prepping the exterior pocket:
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    Start by making the bias tape strip. You'll need to fold it in half lengthwise WRONGsides facing, open up, turn raw edges to pressed line and press again.
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    Take the three pocket pieces (exterior, lining, and canvas) and place them WRONGsides facing with the canvas in the middle.

    Open up the bias tape, pin along top edge of pocket. Sew along first crease line.
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    Fold the bias tape over to the back (lining) side of the pocket and sew again close to theedge.
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    Baste along remaining edges of pocket piece. Set aside.

    Assembling exterior:

    Place one piece of exterior fabric on top of one piece of canvas. Then place theassembled pocket piece exterior facing up on top.
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    Sew down the middle of the pocket piece, marking a line with a water soluble pen ifdesired. This creates your divided pocket. You might also want to do a few stitchesacross the top just to reinforce the pocket.
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    Now place the remaining exterior piece RIGHT side down, then the remaining canvaspiece of top of that. Pin along both sides and bottom edge. Sew along all three edges.
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    Now stick your hand inside the bag and pinch the bottom corner so that the side andbottom seams are aligned. With your water soluble pen mark a line that is 2" from thetip of the corner, perpendicular to the seam. Sew along that line.

    Clip corner. Repeat for remaining corner.

    Assemble lining:
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    Place lining pieces RIGHT sides together. Pin. Sew along both sides and bottomleaving a 5" opening along the bottom edge for turning. Again as with the exterior, stickyour hand inside the bag and pinch the bottom corner so that the side and bottom seamsare aligned. With your water soluble pen mark a line that is 2" from the tip of thecorner, perpendicular to the seam. Sew along that line. Clip corner. Repeat forremaining corner.

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    Align the raw edges of each handle with the raw edges of the top of the tote. Baste inplace so that the handles are 5" apart.

    Finishing the tote:
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    Slip the exterior into the lining piece RIGHT sides facing. Sew around top opening ofthe tote. Turn right side out through the opening you left in the lining. Tuck in rawedges of lining and sew shut using a small seam allowance. Push lining into the exteriorand press along the top edge.
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    Sew two rows of top stitching along the top edge. I suggest using a slightly larger stitchlength for top stitching.
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    fold-over bag tutorial


    Thanks againBloomfor hosting my tutorial yesterday! I've really enjoyed so many ofBloom's topics since I first found their blog. I especially loved the post on handmade

    gifts for Christmas, it really helped reign me in and made me realize what was mostimportant - spending time with my children.
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    Now before I get too sappy, here it is: the fold-over bag - a casual and fun spring bag!

    Materials needed:1/2 yard material for exterior (you'll need about 3/4 of a yard if you have a fabric with a
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    directional print)1/2 yard material for liningscraps for pocketdouble fold bias tape (I made my own, but it's really easy to pick some up at the store,too!)

    about a 1/2 yard of medium weight fusible interfacing2 yards of cotton webbing (1 1/2" wide)(5) 3/8" grommetsthe usual sewing tools: rotary cutter/mat, thread, pins, etc.

    Let's get going!

    Preparing your material:First cut your exterior and lining fabrics to 14" wide by 22" tall (2 of exterior, 2 oflining). For the pocket, cut a piece of fabric 8.5" wide by 11" tall (iron on your fusiblewebbing to the wrong side of this pocket piece). You'll need to use a piece of bias tapeapproximately 8 3/4" long to use for the top of the pocket and about a 32" piece for the

    top edge of the bag. In both cases my bias tape wasn't actually bias tape (since we're notusing it around any curves it isn't necessary) - it was cut straight across the grain.

    For the inside pocket:You can adjust this pocket size as you see fit, I wanted it to hold my two most importantthings - my keys and my cell phone. I also like a nice stiff pocket (that's why I'm usingthe interfacing - so if you don't care about that you can just omit it).
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    Fold each side in 1/2 inch and press. Fold entire piece wrong sides together in half and

    press again.

    Attach bias tape to the top of the pocket. Next you'll want to take one piece of yourlining fabric that's cut to size and fuse on another piece of interfacing to the back side.(This will help your pocket from ripping away from the lining if you get a little crazydigging in the pocket looking for your rigging cell phone.) I place the top of my pocketabout 13" from the top of my bag opening.
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    Sew pocket in place along both sides and bottom (I'm showing the inside of the liningso you can see how I stitched the pocket in place). You may also choose to divide the

    pocket by sewing a single line of stitching down the pocket.

    For the bag:
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    Next, take the two exterior pieces and place them right sides together. Pin. With a 1/2"seam allowance sew both sides and bottom of bag together, leaving the top open.
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    To make the boxed corners place your hand inside the bag corner and press together thetwo seams making a triangle.

    Now measure 1 1/2" from the tip of that triangle and make a mark (I use a pin - butthat's kind of a lazy and less precise way to make the line) perpendicular to the seam.Sew along that mark.
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    Trim tip off leaving a 1/2" seam allowance. Repeat for other corner.Do the same steps above for the lining of the bag.

    Assembling the bag:
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    Place lining into exterior of bag WRONG sides facing together. Align side seams andpin in place.
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    Take your bias tape and pin in place, aligning raw edges to the raw edges of the top ofthe bag. Start sewing along the fold about a 1/2" in, leaving a little tail unsewn (we'lltake care of this in the next step).

    Sew all the way around the top of the bag.
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    Now, fold in that little tail, that'll leave a nice finished edged when you flip the tapeover.
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    Flip tape over and pin in place, sew close to edge. I had success sewing the bias tape onwith the lining side up, but you may want to sew it with the exterior side up since that'sthe side that you'll be seeing most.

    Fold over the top of the bag and press (you can fold it over however far looks good toyou, I folded mine down about 6.5" from the top. Looking pretty spiffy now.

    Attaching the strap:I cut my cotton webbing about 49 inches long, but you can pin your strap on the bag andadjust it to fit how you like it. I wanted a cross-body type strap.
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    For an added punch of color (or pattern if you wish), take a few small pieces of scrapfabric and make them into double fold bias tape. Sew onto raw edges of cotton webbing- this will cover up the raw edges. My first bag I was able to tuck the webbing

    underneath to hide the raw edge, but the black webbing was pretty thick - so this was anice alternative. Pin the strap in place centered on the side seams with a tail of ithanging about 4" down from the top of the fold. Mark where your grommets will be

    placed, cut the holes through all layers of the fabric, insert grommet, hammer into place(be sure to read the directions on the back of the grommet package for full directions).Place two grommets on each side of bag. {If you don't have grommets, or don't like thelook, you can also just sew the straps in place, but it can get a little tricky}. Just be sureto make sure your straps aren't crossed and that they are parallel to the side seam whenyou go to insert your grommets.

    Making front tab (this is mostly decorative, but it sort of functions as a pull tab for

    when you want to open the bag):
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    You're done! This can be a really fun and functional bag. I used a home dec weightfabric from ikea for the exterior of this bag, but you could also use a regular quiltingweight cotton. You might want to interface it with some medium weight interfacing ifyou choose to use a regular quilting cotton, unless you want a really 'slouchy' bag.

    Enjoy! Here's an alternate version I made using slightly different bag measurements, butthe same concept:

    Terms of use: For personal use only.

    Runaround Bag
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    This is my latest bag design I've been working on, well, just about forever. Not really,but when I was writing up myfold-over bag tutorial, this was another design I sketchedout thinking I would make it my first pattern. So things don't always go as planned, butI'm really happy with the results, and happy that this will be my second pattern!

    I'm hoping to have things all wrapped up by this weekend so I can get it ready for salestarting on Monday.

    I'm calling it the Runaround Bag because I think it's the perfect size for running errandsand regular day to day stuff. It'll hold all your goodies, but not so many that your

    should will feel like it's breaking off!
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    The pattern includes full size pattern pieces, two pocket options, and a magnetic snapoption. I loved making these bags!

    I'll just show you a few sneak peeks to tease you, have a great weekend!
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    Runaround Bag Pattern

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    MOD 01 MOD 02

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    MOD 04 (Tambien en Blanco con letras negras) MOD 05 (Tambien enblanco y Azul Oscuro)

    MOD 06 MOD 07

    MOD 08