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Making Arrows

Selecting shaftsI use northern pine exclusively now for my everyday arrows (I use ash and poplar forsome specialist shafts). The sudden tree death disease is raging through the northernstates and badly affecting the POC. There is a stockpile and I dont think the diseaseaffects the quality of the wood as long as it is harvested soon after dying. There is acomplete embargo on cutting live trees. Everything I say here goes for all woodenshafts.

The shafts should be roughly straight. Gentle distortions can usually be removed witha little heat and flexing but avoid kinks.

Spine and diameterSpine is the flexibility of the shaft. The faster the bow the stiffer the shaft you willneed. For straight bows (AFB/LT) you will need arrows a little less stiff than the spineratings so for a 40lb longbow you will need 30-35lb spine arrows. Recurved bowstend to be faster and the arrow spine will be closer to bow weight.

It is worth bearing in mind that the spine is static spine. It doesnt take into account: Pile weight heavy piles will make the arrows behave as though they have a

lighter spine.

Fletching drag large or angled fletchings will make the arrows behave asthough they have a heavier spine. Arrow length - the spine is measured over a 26 length longer arrows behave

as thought they have a lighter spine.To some extent the diameter will be dictated by the spine. Heavier spines are onlyavailable in larger diameters. Where there is an overlap it is a matter of personalpreference but the following might be factors:

Thinner arrows are less affected by crosswinds Thicker arrows make a bigger hole and youll get marginally more line cutters

WeightThe arrows should have enough weight to absorb the energy of the bow, too light antthere will be some energy not transferred leading to hand shock and noise. Too heavyand they will slow the limbs.

GrainThe grain in the wood represents the tree rings. There are three views that you need tobear in mind.

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1. The long grain edge should run along the shaft without twisting because with

changes in humidity the shaft will tend to warp.2. The ring grain may show v-shaped contours. If these are obvious and

consistent they should point towards the nock end so that if the grain lifts willnot tend to catch your bow hand.

3. the end grain will dictates the orientation of the nock. The slot of the nock willrun at right angles to the end grain. If you run the nock parallel it will tend tosplit along the grain.

Cutting the nocksSelf nocks have to be about deep and should just grip the string. They should becut across the endgrain with a saw. It is important to cut them in the centre and asimple jig can help. It is possible to use a bandsaw with a jig to centre the shaft on theblade. The saw cut can be opened out first of all with a fine diamond file or nail fileand then with an emery board or some sandpaper folded over a few times.

A nock cutting jig This is a simple jig that will hold the arrow and guide the saw to get a straight andcentral cut. The arrow guide is roughly v-shaped so it will centre itself on arrows of different diameter arrows. The taper at the back end allows the arrow to be inserted.

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The whole thing is held together with elastic bands. The arrow is inserted just lowerthan the end of the block so that there is a part of the guide slot to put the saw in..Normally Id lightly grip the jig in a vice but on the right you an see how the saw isguided across the arrow. Im using a very nice Japanese saw here but a hacksaw orany fine toothed saw will work.

A bandsaw guide This is the guide I use on the bandsaw. The keel fits snugly into the slot in the table.Fine adjustments are made using the plastic blade guides.

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Reinforcing the NocksUnreinforced nocks will break The arrow will flirt unpredictably and the effect of dryloosing will do the bow no good. The simplest reinforcement is a few turns of threadheld in place with a coat of varnish or glue. I use linen thread and whip it on with alost loop. This is much easier to show in picture than to describe in words:

From top left:1. This is the loop that is going to be used to pull the loose end through.2. Start with the end of the thread going towards the end of the arrow.

3. Bind over the end of the thread and the loop.4. Keep binding keeping it neat and tight5. Cut the thread and thread the end through the loop6. Pull the loop through bringing the end of the thread with it (not pictured

because I didnt have a spare hand)7. Pull tight and cut the loose ends close with a sharp knife.

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And this is what it looks like when it has been varnished (in this case with buttonpolish