Arduino+Ramp Calibrado 3D

8/13/2019 Arduino+Ramp Calibrado 3D

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Calibration and Operation

Use these connections

1. At this point you should have the printer fully assembled with the power supply connected and the USB cable from your computer attached.

1.0 Checking Head Motion

2. Launch Pronterface. Check the appropriate port is selected and the Baud rate is

115200. If you are unsure which port the printer is on you should select the device

manager to confirm (see previous section).

3. The print head can be moved in all directions using the circular graphic. The inner ring

moves the shortest distance. Be careful that you do not move the head outside the

extremities of the print bed. Be ready at any time to disconnect the power if you make a

wrong move. Place the head in the middle of the board and check that the head will move in

all 6 directions of motion.


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1.0 Checking Direction of motion

4. The machine should be oriented with front toward the operator. That is , the Y axis motor and the electronics to the back. The head should move relative to

the print bed in a way that mimics the circular pronterface graphic. For example, If you click the right X-axis button on Pronterface the print head should

move physically to the right. Additionally, when the home buttons are clicked the head should move toward the end stop for the appropriate axis. If this does

not happen the motor direction must be switched.

Home Home

Home


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To change the direction of a particular motor , unplug it from

the Ramps board and insert in the opposite direction. That is

switch the red wire from right to left by rotating the plug.

RED RIGHT

RED LEFT

CUT POWER TO

ELECTRONICS BEFORE

WORKING ON BOARD


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A common occurrence at this stage is for motors to Jitter or fail to move in a both directions. This could be due to the fact that something is mechanically

jamming the mechanism, or because the power supply to the motor is incorrect. This is adjusted by varying the potentiometer on the Stepper motor driver.

If a motor will operate in one direction but not the other check that the end stop has not been activated. Alternatively it may be shorted. Removing the end

stop plug from the board is a good way to trouble shoot this.

Variable

Potentiometer

Or Pot

Rotating the POT fully anti-clockwise will supply zero

current and fully clockwise, maximum current. Generally

speaking the pot will need to be about 1/3 from zero for

operation of the motor. You should increase or decrease

this value until motors operate with adequate strength and

judder free. Bad wiring connections can also cause motor

noise and juddering.

The Pot should be set at the lowest possible setting for

smooth operation..

x y Z

CUT POWER TO ELECTRONICS BEFORE

TOUCHING VARIABLE POTENTIOMETERS


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IF YOUR STEPSTICK DRIVER HAS TWO POTS

READ http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?94,160469

Adjust Current through Motor

Turned Fully Counter Clockwise
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?94,160469http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?94,160469


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Open the Sprinter.ino file and select the configuration.h tab as

illustrated. Scroll down until you locate the AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT

setting. A typical entry might be:

#define _AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT {53.3, 55.23, 2276.069,589.4}

First Number = X Axis

Second Number = Y Axis

Third Number = Z Axis

Third Number = Extruder Rate


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Calibrating thePrusa 12 x 12

Calibrating the printer simply means ensuring that when the print head is commanded by the software to move a certain distance in any direction it actually does

so. To calibrate the X axis get a ruler and lower the print head to just above the bed. Using Pronterface, command the print head to move 200 mm to the right.

Measure the actual distance moved. If the actual distance is 200 mm then the printer is calibrated in the X axis. If the printer head only moved 190 mm then a

calibration adjustment is needed. Assume the current setting is as follows:


Print Command: = 200mm

Actual Movement = 190 mm

Current X axis setting = 53.3

New X axis setting is calculated by 200* 53.3/190 = 56.11. Edit the line in the sprinter

configuration to read as follows:


Repeat the same procedure for the Y and Z axis then upload the sprinter file. Power cycle

the printer and check the changes have taken effect.


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Calibrating the Extruder

Mark here

Base

Unlike the other axis, the extruder will almost certainly need calibration

because no two hobbedbolts are exactly the same.

Start by marking the filament about 30 mm above the top of the extruder.

Make sure the hot end has reached the correct operating temperature.

Use Pronterface to extrude 30 mm of filament. This is best done by 10 x

3mm steps with a break of a couple of seconds between each extrusion.

Now assume that the extruder sucked in 32 mm of filament and the

current calibration is as follows:


The correction is 30* 589.4/32 = 552.56. The calibration line then

becomes:


Failure to get this adjustment right will result in either to much or to little plastic flowing into the print, resulting in poor print quality.


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Pronterface / SFACT Settings

The best setup for Pronterface very much depends on the type of print you are doing. There is no substitute for studying and fully understanding the software to

ensure that you get the best out of your printer. However, the following settings are a good place to start:

Go to Pronterface. Under menu itemSettings/Options :

Change build_dimensions to 300x290x190+0+0+0

Under Menu Item Settings/Slicing Settings change the following:

SelectInset

Nozzle Diameter = 0.35 mm

SelectMultiply

Center X (mm) = 150

Center Y (mm) = 150

SelectSkirt

Gap over Perimeter Width (Ratio) = 1

Speed

Main feed rate ( mm/s ) = 30

This is a good place to start and you can increase later. Generally speaking the

slower the print speed the better the print quality.

Raft

Select: Activate Raft

Base Layers (integer) = 0

Interface Layers (integer) = 0

Using the help links in Pronterface/SFACT is a great way to learn more about the numerous features that will improve your print quality.


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Levelling the BedThe bed should be as level as possible with respect to the print nozzle. Position the

print nozzle in the center just above the surface of the bed (say about 0.5 mm). Traverse

about 100 mm in both X and Y directions and note the gaps between nozzle and head.

Adjust the print legs until the nozzle remains the same distance above the bed in all

directions.


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Z Axis Setup

Before starting a print, getting the print nozzle just the right height above the bed is very important for print quality. Every printstarts by pressing the home button on Pronterface. The Z axis limit must be carefully adjusted so that the nozzle starts just the right

height above the bed.

The following text is from a Reprap forum and describes the issue perfectly:

This is one of the most important settings for your printer and we believe it is worth mentioning in our quick start guide. 0.1mm

can make a big difference in your print. We found simply using a piece of printer paper gives us the correct spacing. This guide

assumes your print bed is level and even in all four corners.

Be sure there is no filament stuck to the bottom of your nozzle

Adjust your Z axis end stop so that you are just able to slide a piece of printer paper under it with little resistance. By just slip we

mean barely just slip.

Be careful that you arent actually pushing down on your spring loaded bed when you are trying to move the paper, which will skew

your results.

Now move your nozzle using the Pronterface 10mm jog button on X and Y. Your paper should not bind. If the paper binds at one

point and not another, adjust your bed height to make it even.

Your end stop should now be setting your nozzle just about 0.1mm above the print bed and you are ready to print!


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Large Prints

Large prints are much more challenging than smaller ones because

they tend to warp much more due to their size and it is always

more difficult to align a larger bed.

Using Rafts to print large objects is essential if you do not want

them to warp. The raft serves two purposes:

1. Bed levellingAlthough the stretched aluminum bed appears

flat to the naked eye they rarely are when measured to a

fraction of a millimeter. The raft is a great solution for

smoothing out the undulations of a large bed.

2. Warping - The raft provides a greater surface for the print to

adhere to the bed and thus will resist the natural tendency of

the print material to warp during cooling.

The Reprap forum has lots of good stuff about rafts and should be consulted for an in depth understanding. For a quick start the following page has our preferred

raft settings:


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RAFT SETTINGS


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Printing Techniques

The Reprap.org forums have a wealth of knowledge about how to print. To avoid damaging the machine before you

reach a reasonable skill level keep the following things in mind:

1. Never operate the hot end above 250 degrees Celsius. Always operate at the lowest temperature needed to cause the material to

flow. Extruding PLA at 230 degrees C will cause it to burn in the nozzle, requiring you to dismantle the hot end and clean. Extruding

ABS above 250 degrees C will cause the nozzle to burn and may require replacement.

2. Never operate the extruder before the hot end has reached the correct temperature. The hobbed bolt will tear into the filament

and loose traction.

3. Always have the power supply plug close at hand and be ready to disconnect the power in case you send a manual command to the

printer that will cause the printer head to travel outside the bounds of the operating range.

4. Manually extrude at about 30 to 50 mm/min. The Pronterface default is set wildly high at 300 mm/minute and will often result in

extruder jams.

5. Increasing the reliability of the printer is a gradual process. Things will vibrate loose during operation. Using a small amount of thread

locking compound ( Loctite etc.) on bolts that frequently vibrate loose will ensure more reliable operation in the future. Remember thread

locker melts ABS so use sparingly on the threads only.

6. Study and fully understand the SFACT and Pronterface software. This is essential to good quality prints. Different prints often require

different settings.

7. With few exceptions, the slower you print the better the print quality.

8. Try to avoid cheap Chinese filament. Whilst it will not normally damage the machine, the frequent extruder/hot end jams tend to spoil

the whole print experience.

9. Never let the nozzle sit idle when heated for more than a few minutes. It will cook the contents of the nozzle and cause a jam.


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Reference Notes from RepRap.org


http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Build_Manual
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Build_Manualhttp://www.reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Build_Manual

Arduino+Ramp Calibrado 3D

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