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16BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362

Basic Types of Buttons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .363Types of Buttonholes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .363Button/Buttonhole Extension . . . . . . . . . . . . . .363Button and Buttonhole Placement Guide . . .364

FACINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366Stitched Facings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366Fold-Back Facings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366Facing Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366Facings for Cut-Out Necklines

and Armholes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366SELF-EVALUATION TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368

Buttons,Buttonholes,and Facings

chapter

361

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362 Chapter 16

BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLESButtons and buttonholes are both functional and dec-orative, but their primary purpose is to hold two sidesof a garment together by having a button on one side

of the garment slipped through a corresponding open-ing or loop on the other side. (Other types of closuresare Velcro, snaps, hooks and eyes, and grippers.)

Buttons range in size, and they come detailed orflat in a wide range of geometric shapes, such as circle,square, rectangle, quarter-ball, half-ball, and full-ball(see illustration). They are commonly designated byline (ligne), inches or centimeters representing thediameter of the button.

Buttons can be made of plastic, metal, or naturalsubstances (wood, bone, mother-of-pearl), or coveredin fabric or leather. They can be plain or decorative

jeweled, corded, carved, or saddle stitched. There arebuttons for every type of garment, from sportswear toformal wear, making the button an important fashionstatement.

Buttonholes are openings or loops wide enough toaccommodate the size of the button, placed on an over-lapping section of the garment or as a loop where thecenter lines meet. Womens-wear garments button rightover left, through vertical, horizontal, or angled slits.

BUTTON SIZES

Line 14 1/4 "

Line 16 3/8 "

Line 18 7/16 "

Line 20 1/2 "

Line 45 1 1/2 "

Line 55 1 3/8 "

Line 70 13/4 "

Line 80 2 "

Line 22 9/16 "

Line 25 5/8 "

Line 30 3/4 "

Line 36 7/8 "

Line 40 1 "

Flat

Half-ball Full-ball

Quarter ball

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BUTTONS, BUTTONHOLES,AND FACINGS 363

Basic Types of ButtonsSew-ThroughSew-through buttons have two or four holes forattachment.

Shank ButtonsShank buttons have a solid top and various types of shank (wire, fabric, loop, metal, or plastic) attachedto the underside. The shank raises the button awayfrom the fabric surface, allowing room for layers of fabric to fit smoothly under the button when closed.

Types of ButtonholesMachine-StitchedButtonholes can be stitched as straight or keyholeopenings.

Bound ButtonholesFolded fabric covers the raw edge opening in thegarment. This type of buttonhole can be made by aseamstress or sent to a trim house for stitching.

LoopsLoops are narrow strips of turned bias with or with-out a filler. For mass-produced garments, loops aregenerally made by a trim house. Loops are stitchedat center line. The joined side can be developed withor without an extension.

SlitsSlits can be cut in leather, plastic, or fabric that will

not ravel (not illustrated).

Button/Buttonhole ExtensionOverlapButton closures require an overlap extending be-yond the center line. The extension should be equalto the diameter of the button (or one-half the diam-eter on inexpensive garments). Asymmetric gar-ments have extensions that are parallel with theasymmetric line. The center of the button is stitchedon the center line of the garment. The buttonholestarts at the center line and finishes on the body of the garment. More information follows.

Two-hole button Four-hole button

Metal shank Cloth shank

Bound

SPAGHETTI LOOPS

Spaced

CloseBlanket looped Chain looped

THREAD LOOPS

C e n

t e r l

i n e

Two-hole button

Shank button

Extension

Extension

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364 Chapter 16

Buttonhole LengthThe length of a buttonhole is determined by the di-ameter of a flat button plus 1/8 inch. For stylisticbuttons (odd shapes), see page 364.

Buttonhole PlacementThe buttonhole placement generally starts 1/8 inchout from the center front (on the extension). How-ever, consideration must be given to the distance be-tween the holes of the button or to the width of thebutton shank. Mark the buttonhole placement outfrom the center line one-half the distance betweenthe holes of the button and one-half the width of the shank. Otherwise, the buttonhole will not becentered with the button. Make a copy from frontto shoulder/neck for the person who makes the

buttonholes.

Button and ButtonholePlacement GuideNecklinesMark the buttonhole down from the neckline at adistance equal to one-half the diameter of the but-ton, plus 1/4 inch.

Belted GarmentMark the position so that buttonhole is at least 1 1/2inches up and down from belt or buckle width. Thewaist can be secured with Velcro or hook and eye, if needed (see examples). Apply the same rule for thewaistband on the buttonhole side.

Unbelted GarmentMark buttonhole placement at the waistline to se-cure waist.

Buttonhole SpacingMark the first and last buttonhole. Divide the re-maining space among the remaining buttonholesneeded. When spacing buttonholes, consider plac-ing buttonhole as near to the bust level as possibleto avoid gapping. This may require closer or widerplacement than desired.

Button PlacementMark button placements on the left side correspond-ing to buttonholes on the right. Center the spacebetween holes of the button or center of the shank;place on the center line of the garment.

Diagonal ButtonholesThe rules stated previously apply. Make a copy of thebutton and buttonhole placement as a guide for thebuttonhole maker.

1 1/2 "

1 1/2 "

FRONT RIGHT SIDE FRONT LEFT SIDE

Same location

1 1/2 "

FRONT

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BUTTONS, BUTTONHOLES,AND FACINGS 365

Vertical ButtonholesFigure 1These instructions apply to inset bands or the useof tiny buttons. Button placement is marked at thetop of the buttonhole at the neck and at the lowerend of the last buttonhole, with the remaining but-tons centered. This button placement stabilizes thegarment.

LapelsFigure 3Mark button and buttonhole at a point where thelapel folds over from the extension (breakpoint).Place remaining buttons and buttonholes using pre-vious information. Use the information providedfor marking button/buttonholed sleeve cuffs.

Center Center

How to Determine Accurate Buttonhole LengthIt may be difficult to determine the correct buttonhole length for shank buttons; quarter-ball, half-ball, andfull-ball buttons; and those buttons that are carved and decorated.

Solution: Before placing the buttonhole on the garment, experiment on a piece of scrap fabric. Measure the di-ameter of the button from side to side. Mark the length of the diameter on the scrap fabric, slit the fabric, andpush the button through. If too tight, slash more; if too loose, slit another sample. When you have the cor-rect length, set the buttonhole machine, or if self-made, mark the correct length. Remember that womens-

wear garments are buttoned right over left, and mens-wear garments are buttoned left over right.Collecting button sizes: Find buttons to fit the example sizes, label them, and file for future reference.

Top

Center

Bottom

Waistbands and CuffsFigure 2a,bInstructions for button and buttonholes apply.

Figure 2a

Figure 1Figure 3

Figure 2b

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366 Chapter 16

FACINGSStitched FacingsA stitched facings primary purpose is to conceal rawedges of seams for designs with cutout necklines,cutout armholes, sleeveless garments, curved hem-lines, and any styleline where raw edges must becovered.

Fold-Back FacingsFold-back facings are not stitched to the garmentbut are part of the main pattern. Generally, the fold-back facings follow straight lines of the garmenthemlines of skirts, sleeves, jackets, pants, and cowls,to name a few.

The following instructions apply only to neck-line, shoulder, and armhole facings. Fold-back fac-ings requiring buttons and buttonholes arediscussed with shirts. Fold-back hemlines of shirts,jackets, sleeves, pockets, collars, cuffs, yokes, insethemlines, and other self-faced sections are coveredin the appropriate chapters.

Facings are planned as part of the plotting. Theyare traced from the pattern before or after the designpattern has been developed. Facings for deeply cut-out necklines or armholes may be modified, withthe cut edge of the neck and armhole of the garment

eased into the facing to offset stretch or to cause acloser fit. Both methods are illustrated.

Facing TypesFacings vary in width and shape but generally arefrom 1 1/2 to 2 inches. The back facing should belonger than the depth of the front neckline forhanger appeal.

Separate facing. Individual facings for the necklineand armhole.

Combined facing. All-in-one facing for the neck-line and armhole.

Separate FacingsFigures 1,2Facings are traced from the front and back patterns.The outer edge of the facing is trimmed 1/16 inch atthe shoulder to zero at the shoulder tip and 1/8 inchin from side to zero at the armhole. This eliminateslooseness and stretch. (Broken line indicates origi-nal pattern from which the facing is traced.)

Facings for Cut-Out Necklinesand ArmholesIn the following series, front facings can also bemodified to offset stretch of cut-out necklines andsleeveless garments. The edge of the garments cut-

out is eased into the modified facing for a closer fit.(Review contouring for guidance when facing ratherthan bodice is modified.)

1/16 "

1/8 " Center front

Armhole facingNeck facing

Figure 1

1/16 "

1/8 "

Center back

Neck facing

Figure 2

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BUTTONS, BUTTONHOLES,AND FACINGS 367

1/16 "FACING BACK

BACK

(a)

Figure 11/16 "

FRONT

FACING FRONT

1 1/2 "

1 1/2 "

(b)

1/16 "

FRONT3/8"

1 1/2 "

1 1/2 "

(c)

Figure 2

Blend

(d)

Overlap

(e)

1/16 "

1 1/2 "

1 1/2 "

(f)

Figure 3

3/8 "

Overlap/Blend

Blend

(g)

V-Cut Neckline FacingFigures 1 a,b Trace the back and front patterns. Draw cut-out

necklines and trim excess (indicated on brokenlines). Redraw upper part of both patterns anddraw facings.

Back: The depth of the back facing should exceeddepth of the front neckline (improves hanger ap-peal). Cut the back facing from paper.

Front: Mark about one third up from center frontneckline and draw a slash line. Mark notches, asshown. Trim 1/16 inch across shoulder. Cut fac-ing from paper.

Figures 2 c,d, e Slash and overlap 3/8 inch and blend. Retrace and blend. Modify facing to offset stretch. For back facing, see Figure 1.

Scoop-Neckline FacingFigures 3 f,g After tracing the pattern and drawing a scoop

neckline, trim excess. Retrace the upper part of the pattern and draw

facing; mark slash line and notches (shaded areashown in (f).

Slash, overlap 3/8" and blend (g). For back facing, see Figure 1.

Cut-Out Armhole FacingFigures 4 h, i After tracing the pattern and drawing the arm-

hole, trim excess. Retrace upper part of the pattern and draw fac-

ing; mark slash line and notches (shaded areashown in (h).

Slash, overlap 3/8" and blend (i). Trace back pattern and facing.

1/16 "

FRONT

1/8"

1 1/2 "

1 1/2 "

(h)

Figure 4

Slash, overlapand blend

Blend

(i)

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368 Chapter 16

Combined FacingsFigures 1,2 Combined facings are traced from the front or

back patterns; trimmed 1/8 inch at shoulder,neck, and sides; and blended to zero, as shown.

To complete the back facing, the shoulder dartis closed (broken line); otherwise, it would betoo bulky.

Facing length at center back varies according todepth of the front neck. Measurements givenmay be used for the basic neckline.

Figures 3,4 Facings for garments with stylelines should be

developed before the bodice pattern is sepa-rated. However, if the pattern has been sepa-rated, place style seamlines together and tracesection being faced.

Trim 1/8 inch at shoulder, neck, and side, withline blended to zero as shown. (Insert twill tapealong V-neckline to help prevent stretching.)

Repeat for back (not illustrated). (Broken lines in-dicate original pattern.)

SELF-EVALUATION TESTFill in the blanks. Check your answers on page 805.

1. Line/ligne refers to button __________________.

2. Buttonhole size is determined by the buttons __________________.

3. A facings primary purpose is __________________.

4. Two facing types are __________________ and __________________.

5. Contour facing applies only to __________________ and __________________.

6. __________________ are traced before separating stylelines ending in armhole and necklines.

7. An all-in-one facing is a __________________ facing.

8. Wire loop, metal, plastic at the underside is a __________________ button.

9. Buttonholes start __________________ inch into area of the extension.

10. Vertical buttonholes are generally marked on __________________.

1/8 "1/8 "

1/8"

2 "

C e n

t e r

f r o n

t

FRONT FACING

Figure 1

1/8 "1/8 "

1/8"

Close

4 "

BACK FACING

C e n

t e r

b a c

k

Figure 2

1/8"1/8"

1/8"

FRONT FACING(Design 1)

Figure 3

1/8"1/8 "

1/8 "

FRONT FACING(Design 2)

Figure 4